Training Your Puppy

From the moment you bring your puppy into your home, every word you utter and every body language you use will be teaching the dog something!!

HOUSEBREAKING
1. Establish a Schedule as soon as Possible	Keep track of when the pup urinates and has a bowel movement. If necessary, record these times on a piece of paper by the door. At first, adjust your schedule as much as possible to fit the pup's elimination times
2. Pup will need to go out immediately after: waking eating vigorous or prolong play sessions	A two month old puppy can last approximately two hours. A three month old puppy can last approximately three hours. etc. For the first week or so as the pup adjusts to his new place, it is probably more realistic to only expect one hour of no urination.
3. After any of the above events, get the puppy outside quickly - carry him at first	On a leash, walk the puppy around the designated area of the yard saying "good piddle" in a calm manner As soon as urination starts say "GOOD PIDDLE" in a happy voice and when he is finished say GOOD PIDDLE in a congratulatory tone and give a food treat. Release the pup from the leash for a play session outside or back in the house. Follow the same procedure for a bowel movement with a different cue word ie. "Good Show". Praise for a correct behaviour should be lavish: high tones of voice food treat fun play session (to finish). Praise for paper training should be calm - let him know that it is OK for the time being but going outside will lead to party times! Desire for a bowel movement will be 15-20 minutes after eating (possibly sooner for the very young pup) so plan your feeding schedule accordingly ie. don't feed him when you are in your pj's on a snowy morning - be ready to sprint out the door. Designated area of the yard should be in a far corner, not where he will eventually play and romp - it might help to leave one stool in the area at first. The food reward doesn't havae to be large - one piece of his kibble or similar size dog treat is enough. Keep some in your pocket or by the door. The food reward must be given within one to two seconds of the act.
4. A puppy has a natural instinct to keep his play and sleep areas clean.	Try not to force him to disregard this instinct. This is the reason for having a crate just big enough for him to comfortably sleep in and his papered area separate from his bed and bowls.
5. Get the puppy used to playing on different surfaces (such as a carpet) as soon as possible.	Errorless training is the most effective. For example: 10 am - out to urinate 10:15 - play for a maximum of 15 minutes on the carpet. Watch carefully for any impending accidents. 10:15 - 11:15 - in crate, then start the process over Very gradually increase play sessions and don't leave any newspapers lying about if you are using them for training.
6. No physical punishments for housetraining accidents	Or you will only end up with a dog that is afraid to eliminate in your presence. If you catch him in the act of having an accident, make a sharp Ah! Ah! sound and quickly carry him outside. Startle him into stopping rather than scolding him. Just think of these accidents as your fault, not the dogs ie. you misjudged when he had to go out. It is more effective to "appear" to have ignored the mistake and to appear utterly thrilled by outside elimination.


SUMMARY
Benefits	The dog will have a "go" when it is convenient for both of you and in a spot that you have chosen. Eliminating on leash and with food rewards are key points to achieve this end. Play sessions after the fact will insure that you don't have a dog that will hold it as long as possible because he knows he will be whisked back into the house and/or crate as soon as he goes.
Housetraining will probably be a life-long process	Verbal praise can eventually replace food rewards but not until the dog's house behavior is impeccable and only then should the treats be gradually phased out.
Work a phrase into your training as a cue for the dog to know that it is time for his business.	Just as you are opening the door, say in an urgent tone "Do you have to go out?" and if there is time, encourage the dog to bark a YES. He will eventually be able to tell you that it's time to go out.
Encourage an elimination in your yard before you take the dog out for his walk and/or play session.	The reward for doing his business is a walk or a play session. Do not take him for a walk and as soon as he eliminates, hurry back home. The dog will soon realize that as soon as he eliminates his fun ends.

OTHER HINTS
1. Housetraining methods can be used for other behavior problems. For example: praise for good behavior quick distraction from bad	For example, Chewing Lots of praise for chewing the chew toy, quick distraction from inappropriate chewing and then substituting the correct toy. Don't give your pup an old shoe or sock to play with or he will think that it is OK to chew anything soft with your scent on it.
2. Limit verbal corrections to the minimum that you need to get the dogs attention.	Save the really loud yell for an emergency. A firm NO in a low tone is easier on everyone's nerves!
3. After the pup has been taught to sit, use this as the dog's form of please.	get him to sit for his dinner sit before going out the door sit before attaching the leash sit before greeting people Don't expect this until you have taught him to sit on one verbal command.
4. Encourage eye contact with the pup.	It is not natural for them to look into your eyes so it must be taught. Hold a piece of food at your eye and say "Look at me". Reward with gentle praise and treat for looking into your eyes for 1 second, then 2, then 3 etc. The dog will be happy to pay attention to you if he has been taught that it is fun to look at humans (his natural instinct is to regard a stare as an aggressive threat). Work this into your daily routine - sit and look into your eyes before dinner, before you throw his ball etc.
5. Use the dogs name only in a happy way.	Don't use his name on it's own as a verbal correction, use the angry tone to OFF or NO. The dog's name should be "music" to his ears and thus he will love to hear you say "Rover, come" or sit or whatever
6. Don't forget to praise naturally occurring good behavior.	When he settles down by himself . . . Good Settle Down . . . Good Chew Toy or whatever else about his behavior that you like. Naming good and bad behaviors will eventually give you good verbal control. Devise a vocabulary for your pup and get everyone in the house to learn what is means.
7. Verbal control is easier on both of you.	Limit physical intervention or the pup will repeat the bad act in order to reward itself with your touch . . . he won't care if it is a "negative" touch ie. taking a toy out of his mouth. The verbal "Drop It" is much easier than chasing him around the room. As with any command, it must be "taught" before it is ordered!
8. Jumping up must be discouraged from day one.	Do this in a firm but fair manner. When his paws are on you, hold onto them until he begins to pull away, then set them on the floor as you say "OFF". Insist on your friends and families co-operation inthis matter. It is extremely difficult to correct this misdemeanor if it has been allowed to happen with no correction for even a few times! Harsh physical punishment for this habit should be avoided as you will discourage your dogs natural friendly attitude towards humans. The "alpha dog" theories with their typical severe physical methods (ie. kneeing the dog in the chest) are now regarded as unnecessary for the average dog. Aggression is liable to breed aggression and should be reserved for a very bad dog and a professional dog trainer.
9. The adults of the house should teach the dog to respect the children's commands.	The children should be taught to be fair to the dog and to use the commands correctly (especially the say it once only). The children must never deliver any physical correction.

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