The History of Our Training Program

We first began training our dogs on the old 'swing arm' boxes with balls thrown from tuna cans on an arm, during the days when dogs were released at the start line --- after the returning dog had crossed it. The pedal that the dogs hit to release the cocked arm was very small, and far from the ball.

Tight turns off the box were impossible, and nobody knew what a fast pass was. You sent your dog long after the returning dog had gone by.

We have altered our methods as the boxes and the game have changed --- to the modern game of dogs passing each other at full speed (after long run-ups to the start line) to take the ball from boxes with 24" wide pedals of many different designs (all with the ball held close to, or even inside, the pedal).

As more and more people have become involved in the sport, the training methods have evolved to match the changes in technology that have so drastically altered the game. In many ways, it is questionable whether the training methods followed the technological changes, or caused them. No matter which came first, the training methods and technological changes have given us a game that barely resembles the one which our Team first played. It is now a game that is much safer for our dogs, and a real joy to play.

Our training program reflects what we believe to be the best of the methods that we have found others using, with a few added twists of our own. It has been refined for many years, and will continue to change as the training methods evolve and improve (whether in response to the technology or leading the technological changes).

A Look at Our Program:

The object of our program is to teach dogs that bringing the ball to their handler is fun. Going over the jumps and activating the box are part of what the dog must do in order to have the fun of bringing it back. We do this by first teaching them that returning to us without the ball is fun, then add the ball to the mix once the dog has learned to have fun playing without it.

In the past, we (as did others) had trained our dogs that getting the ball was the all important part of the game. This resulted in many dogs that were highly driven to get to the box, but were in no hurry to return to their handlers once they had gotten their prize from it --- the ball.

We have found that, with our current method, the dogs are more driven to return to their handlers than they are to get the ball from the box. The competitive nature of the racing causes the dogs to pick up the speed at which they go out to the box once they gain more experience playing the game. Combined with the better turns, the end result is much faster runs by the dogs.

What Prior Training does the Dog Need to Begin the Program?

Only the basics (sit, stay, come) are required before a dog can begin this program. A strong recall is helpful, but is not required. The dog's recall will be strengthened during the course of training.

While only basic training is required to start, the more that a dog has learned before beginning the program, the better. The best thing that a dog could have learned before starting the program is to 'learn how to learn' and to enjoy doing it.

What are the Basics of the Program?

Our program is designed to begin with a dog that does not naturally "grab" a ball, one that will not place its paws on an object, and one that has not jumped an obstacle, and works it through to the point where it is running the full flyball course. We do that by breaking the game down into its component parts, then teaching each part individually. As each part is mastered, the dog is taught the next step, then the next, with the different parts finally being brought together to produce a flyball racer.

Each dog comes to us with different backgrounds. They arrive with different levels of training. Every dog learns at its own individual rate.

We make every effort to adjust our schedule to meet those individual needs. As long as the dog is making progress, however small, we will do whatever we can to see it through to the goal of competing at tournaments.

While the best results come from starting with a puppy, a dog may begin training at any point in the program, and may skip steps as it progresses through it. It all depends upon each dog's level of prior knowledge and development.

How do We Teach It?

We train our dogs using the latest positive reinforcement techniques. We have found that clicker training is very productive.

Our program begins by teaching the dog to run quickly to its handler (recalls) without jumps. Jumps are then added and the recalls are continued.

We then teach the dog to activate the flyball box (without the ball), and return to the handler.

Once the dog is activating the box and quickly running to its handler, we teach the dog to take the ball from the box, and return with it, to the handler. The jumps are then added as they had been in the recall process.

In order to get the dog to quickly return to its handler, we teach it to run towards a toy (motivator). This toy becomes the reward for completing the task that the dog has been assigned (running the course and bringing the ball to its handler). We have found that a sturdy tug toy is a very good one to use.

In order to increase the speed of the return, and to minimize the impact on the dog's joints when striking the box, the "swimmer's turn" is taught from the beginning of the program.

In the 'swimmer's turn' the dog jumps onto the box, placing all four feet onto it, then pushes / leaps off of it in order to return to its handler.

After the dog has shown strength in running the course by itself, we introduce the other dogs to the mix.

The steps that we teach are detailed below. As the handler, you should work through the program as described (with revisions dictated by your dog's pace of development).

The Steps:

These first few steps, not involving recalls (identified with green headings) are ones that should be completed at home - as items completely separate from the flyball training sessions:

Push (Learn to place the feet on a target);

• There are two goals in teaching the dog to push off a target. First we want the dog to learn to place both feet on the target (which will eventually be transferred to placing them onto the flyball box pedal). Next, we want the dog to learn to quickly, and smoothly, turn away from the target, and head in the opposite direction.
• This can easily be taught at home - away from the confusion of the flyball training facility - and is a great low-impact way to start a puppy in its training for flyball. The drill can easily be repeated many times during the day, in short sessions.
• There are two easy ways to teach the dog to push off of a target - beginning with placing the target on the floor, or by holding it in front of the dog first - depending upon how motivated the puppy / dog is to use its paws to explore items.
• Note: We use the command "push" to distinguish the act of the dog placing its paws on a target from placing its nose on it ('touch"). This is to prevent confusion for the dogs that also train in other activities (agility / obedience) in which some behaviors are taught by having the dog place its nose on a target placed on equipment, on the floor, and so on. Whatever command is used, it should be used consistently, and not used to indicate more than one thing in different activities.
  • Make a target for the dog from a CD with duct tape attached over it, or for temporary use, a small paper plate or plastic tub lid.
  • For the dog that does not easily offer to use its paws to explore things, place the target on the floor, directly in front of the dog, and put a small piece of food onto it. Show the target to the dog (call the dog, then tap the target, etc.). The dog will put its nose on the target and take the food. Praise the dog (click) as it takes the food. Repeat this until the dog quickly and easily moves to the target every time that you place the target in front of it - without losing interest.
  • Once the dog is easily moving to the target on the floor, move it up, off of the floor. Hold the target in your hand - with your thumb on top of it, and your fingers on the bottom. Place a small piece of food under your thumb, holding the food by an edge (allowing the dog to see the food). Put the target about one foot in front of the dog's nose, let the dog see it, and call. The dog should move to the food. Let go of the food when the dog pulls at the edge of it. Praise the dog (click) as it takes the food. Repeat this until the dog quickly moves to and touches the target each time that you show it to him/her - without losing interest. For a puppy/dog that shows a great desire to explore items with its paws, this may be used as the first step.
  • After the dog clearly understands that touching the target will get it some food, hide the food completely under your thumb. Let the dog see the target and the food, and call him/her to it. Do not pull your thumb up (allowing the dog to get the food) until it gets frustrated, and "paws" the target. When the dog places its paw(s) on the target, release your thumb, praise (click), and allow the dog to get the food. After the dog has done this several times, give the command "push" as the you release the food. Repeat this several times until the dog is quickly putting its paw(s) on the target (and has begun to associate the "push" command with getting the food) .
  • Once the dog is consistently placing one paw on the target, it is time to teach it to use two paws (of course, if the dog naturally used both paws, this will not be needed). As before, we will use frustration to prompt the dog to place both paws on the target. Once again, place the food under your thumb on the target, place the target in front of the dog, and tell it to "push." This time, do not release the food until the dog places both paws on the target (likely once again digging at your thumb out of frustration). Praise (click) as before - when you release the food. Repeat this until the dog is quickly and reliably placing both paws onto the target - without losing interest.

Turn (push) off of the Target (Begin to learn the "Swimmer's Turn");

• Once the dog is reliably placing two paws on the target, it is time to teach it to turn off of that target, and head away from it. Dogs, like humans, are naturally left-handed or right-handed. Left / right-handedness can cause a strong preference for turning in one direction or the other.
• There is some discussion as to which way is best for a dog to turn off the flyball box. Some say that having the dog turn to its left is best. Some say it is best to let the dog turn in the direction that it chooses. You can let the dog turn in the direction of its natural tendencies, or you can shape the turn to your needs. If you chose to shape the turn, we suggest that you only do so with a young puppy - and only if that puppy has not given you an indication that it is strongly prefers turning one way over the other. Otherwise, identify the direction in which the dog prefers to turn, and reinforce that.
• There are two easy ways to identify the natural direction of a dog's turn:
  • Once the dog is consistently moving to the target, put the dog on a "stay" and place the target on the floor several feet in front of the dog. Command "push" and release the dog. As it hits the target, call the dog back to you. The dog will turn off of the target in order to get back to you. Repeat this multiple times. You will note that the dog favors turning in one direction over the other. This is the direction that the dog will naturally turn as it pushes off of the box. (As noted later, this can also be done with a ball placed on the floor - should the dog already reliably take a ball and return to you.)
  • - or -
  • Once the dog is consistently moving to the target, place the target on the face of a flyball box, on a board tilted against a wall, or on a wall. Set the dog a few feet in front of the target and send it to the target with the "push" command. Once the dog hits the target, call it. You will note that the dog is regularly pushing off the wall in the same direction. This is the direction that the dog will naturally turn as it pushes off of the box.
• Now that we have identified the dog's natural tendency, we know the direction in which we will teach the "swimmer's turn" (and if we are shaping it, we also know the direction).
  • At this point, it is easier to either tape the clicker to the back of the target, or have a second person hold it and click for you as needed. Place the target in the hand that is opposite the direction of the dog's turn. Next, place the food in the hand that is not holding the target. Place the target in front of the dog, with the food held in the 'free' hand, placed alongside the target (in the direction of the dog's turn). Command "push." As the dog places both paws on the target, push the food away from the target, "pulling" the dog back in the direction from which it has come (shaping a turn). Praise (click) as the dog catches the food that you are pulling away from the target. Again, repeat this until the dog is quickly, happily, and reliably pushing off the target with both paws and turning away from it.
  • Once the dog is consistently and happily pushing off the target and turning as shown above, move the target to the flyball box. Slightly off-set the target, high on the pedal - in the direction of the dog's turn (roughly where the dog's front feet should hit in order to have its mouth reach over the ball when it is placed in the hole on that side of the box). Place the dog a couple feet in front of the box, and command "push," sending it to the target. As it hits the target, call the dog to you. Reward (click) as the dog returns to you.
  • If no flyball box is readily available at home, place the target on a board tilted against a wall, or on the wall itself, at the level that the dog's front feet should hit in order to reach its mouth over the ball when it is placed in the flyball box's hole. Repeat the above pattern.
  • Slowly begin to substitute the toy that you will be using as a motivator at the end of the flyball course for the food as you reward the dog.

Take the Ball (Learn to place the ball in its mouth if the dog does not already play with a ball);

• This step is intended to help a dog that has no "ball drive" (one that will not touch a ball) to learn to play with a ball. This learned "ball drive" will be incorporated into the flyball training sessions later.
  • Place food in your hand, between your fingers. Place your open hand a short distance from the dog's mouth. As the dog touches your hand to get the food, say "catch," "get it," etc., and reward the dog with the food. The word(s) will become the command to take a ball from the box. Increase the range that the dog must reach to touch your hand. Once the dog reliably moves to touch your hand for several sessions, move on to the next stage.
  • Place a tennis ball in your hand, covering the food. Again place your hand a short distance from the dog's mouth. Give the command to "catch," "get it," etc. When the dog touches the ball, reward with the food and praise (click). The dog must touch the ball to get the food. Move the ball a short distance from the dog's nose. The dog will begin to hesitantly move toward the ball and touch it. Reward the dog for the touch. Repeat until the dog moves easily to the ball, and gradually increase the distance.
  • Once the dog moves easily to and touches the ball reliably for several sessions, return to the short distance (close enough that pawing the ball will be more difficult than mouthing it). Command "catch." When the dog touches the ball, do not reward. The dog will become confused and frustrated. Out of frustration, the dog will "mouth" the ball. When it places its mouth on the ball, reward. Repeat. Move the ball around so that the dog must reach for it in order to mouth it.
  • Once the dog moves easily to and mouths the ball, move the ball further away (but within reasonable reach for the dog), and give the "catch" command. Reward after every mouthing of the ball. Repeat until the dog moves quickly and willingly to the ball wherever it is placed.
  • Once the dog moves easily to the ball and is mouthing it, withhold rewards until the dog grabs the ball. As soon as the dog releases the ball, command "give" ("release," "out", etc.), and reward it. Once it begins to grab it at the short range, move the ball further and further from the dog, causing it to reach for it. Reward the dog only for grabbing grabbing the ball. Repeat.

Return the Ball (Learn to hold and place the ball into the handler's hand);

• Again, this step should be taken at home, as an item completely separate from the flyball training sessions.
  • Once the dog is happily and regularly reaching for and grabbing the ball, place it on the floor a short distance in front of the dog (that is being held to prevent its grabbing the ball too soon). Command, "catch," and release the dog. Be sure to place the ball close enough to the dog so that it does not have to carry it far in order to give it to you. Note which way the dog turns after taking the ball from the floor. This should be the same turn that was identified in the earlier steps. Command "give" and reward upon return. Repeat until the dog is reliably doing this.
  • Slowly extend the distance that the dog must move to pick up the ball (and return it to you). Release and reward only for the return of the ball (placed in hand on command). Repeat until the dog is reliably do this.
  • Slowly extend the time that the dog must hold the ball before the "give" command. Slowly substitute the toy as the reward after the "give" command.
• Note: Release-on-command will prevent the dog from dropping the ball before the end of the course, and prevent unwanted reruns during tournaments. The early refusal of anything but this return will establish a good pattern.

Most of the following steps (those identified with blue headings) require additional equipment that necessitate completing them in flyball training site sessions. If the equipment is available, they can be completed in your yard, barn, etc.:

Recalls Over Jumps --- 4" to 7" height (Learn that jumping is OK and can be fun too);

• Recall the dog from the box, with the dog's hind legs touching the pedal. The box will occasionally be "cocked" to trigger (sound) at the point the dog pushes off the box. Jumps are set at 4" for adolescent puppies, and 7" for adult dogs.
  • Dog is recalled / chases handler with no jumps.
  • Dog is recalled / chases the handler with 2" inch boards placed on mat where the jumps would be.
  • Dog is recalled over 1 jump (four feet wide).
  • Dog is recalled over 2 jumps (four feet wide).
  • Dog is recalled over 3 jumps (four feet wide).
  • Dog is recalled over 4 jumps (four feet wide).
  • Recall the dog over 4 jumps (four feet wide at first jump, narrowing to 2 feet at final jump).
• This can / should be taught while working on the previous steps.
• Once the dog is reliably recalling over 4 jumps, it is ready to move on to the next step.

Begin Directed Jumping (Learn to seek out the lane of jumps, and return over them);

• Recall the dog from the box, with the dog's hind legs touching the pedal.
  • Recall the dog over 1 jump (four feet wide), with the starting point offset to one side (in the direction of the natural turn of the dog).
  • Recall the dog over 2 jumps (four feet wide at first jump, three feet wide at second), with the starting point offset.
  • Recall the dog over 3 jumps (four feet wide at beginning, three feet wide at second, two feet wide at third), starting point offset.
  • Recall the dog over 4 jumps (four feet wide at first jump, narrowing to 2 feet at final jump), with the starting point offset.
  • Slowly increase the offset distance (and change direction) of the box verses the front jump and repeat.
  • Decrease the offset distance of the box and slowly reduce the width of the jumps until all are at the competition width of 2 feet.
  • Slowly increase the offset distance (and change direction) and repeat.
  • Do occasional recalls with the dog offset to the side of the first jump.
• Note: These steps should be repeated / reinforced occasionally throughout the program. This will aid the dog in learning to seek out the jumps from any spot on the floor - so that it returns over them following bobbles at the box.

Introduce Hitting the box (Learn to push off the box and return quickly to the handler);

• Place the target onto the face of the flyball box. It should be placed high on the pedal, slightly off-set in the direction that the dog turns (such as high to the left for a left turning dog). Hold the dog about four feet in front of the box.
• Command "push" and release the dog. Reward when the dog touches and pushes off the target, then returns to you. As the dog becomes more proficient at touching the target, run away after releasing the dog. The dog will turn faster and faster as it chases you away.
• Place the 'turning board' jump in front of the box. Repeat the process. This will get the dog jumping onto the box with all four feet, and pushing off of it in the classic 'swimmer's turn.'
• Slowly move the dog further from the box before releasing it, running away further each time that you extend the release distance. Increase the release distance until you have moved 15 feet from the box. Repeat until dog is 'solidly' jumping onto the box from this distance, and quickly running back to you.

Introduce Taking the Ball from the Box (Learn to run up the box, and take the ball);

• Place the ball into the release hole with the release spring blocked, or onto a Velcro strip draped over the release hole, of the box.
  • Send the dog to the box from a short distance (about 4 feet again), without the 'turning board' jump in place. The dog takes the ball, and returns to the release point.
  • Repeat until the dog is solidly taking the ball.

Jump onto the Box, Take the Ball, and Run Over the Jumps (Learn to run the course alone);

• Once the dog has learned to take the ball from the box, place the 'turning board' jump in front of the box. Return to the short distance, and repeat the above process.
• Slowly increase the distance to 15 feet (in front of the first jump). Then send the dog to the box (repeat "take" command) and have dog:
  • Return over one 7" jump (four feet wide) with ball.
  • Return over two 7" jumps (four feet wide) with ball.
  • Return over three 7" jumps (four feet wide) with ball.
  • Return over four 7" jumps (four feet wide) with ball.
• Send the dog out over two jumps to the box, returning over all four jumps --- with the ball.
• Send the dog out over three jumps to the box, and back over all four --- with the ball.
• Send the dog out over all four jumps to the box, and back over all four --- with the ball.
• Repeat until the dog is solidly completing the course --- with the ball.

Trigger the Box and Return with the Ball (Learn to take the ball from the box and return it to the handler);

• Return to the short distance from the box. Set a light release tension on / slightly block the spring as the ball is loaded and send the dog to the box.
• Continue slowly increasing the release speed / tension until the ball is being taken from the box at 'competition release' tension.
• Slowly increase the distance to 15 feet (in front of the first jump). Then send the dog to the box (repeat "take" command) and have dog:
  • Return over one 7" jump (four feet wide) with ball.
  • Return over two 7" jumps (four feet wide) with ball.
  • Return over three 7" jumps (four feet wide) with ball.
  • Return over four 7" jumps (four feet wide) with ball.
• Send the dog out over two jumps to the box, returning over all four jumps --- with the ball.
• Send the dog out over three jumps to the box, and back over all four --- with the ball.
• Send the dog out over all four jumps to the box, and back over all four --- with the ball.
• Repeat until the dog is solidly completing the course --- with the ball.

Transition into 2 feet wide jumps (Learn to run in competition lane);

• Start with all jumps four feet wide. Run full course.
• Leave end jumps at four feet width. Reduce middle jumps by 6". Run full course.
• Reduce width of all jumps by 6" before each run until the middle jumps are 2 feet and the ends 2 1/4 feet wide. Run full course.
• Reduce end jumps to two feet width. Run full course.

Add distractions (Learn to focus on task, ignoring surrounding distractions);

• Recall dog with people walking on one side of lane (reverse and repeat).
• Recall dog with people walking on both sides of lane.
• Recall dog with people walking dogs on one side of lane (reverse and repeat).
• Recall dog with people walking dogs on both sides of lane.
• Dog runs out and back with people on both sides of lane.
• Dog runs out and back with people walking dogs on both sides of lane.
• Recall dog with dog running in adjacent lane, same direction (following at release).
• Recall dog with dog running in adjacent lane, opposite direction (release so as to cross in middle).
• Dog runs out and back with dog running in adjacent lane, same direction (following at release).
• Dog runs out and back with dog running in adjacent lane, opposite direction (release after other dog hits box).

Introduce Passing (Learn team work);

• This drill will require the assistance of experienced dogs to run with the new one.
  • New dog is sent out over all 4 jumps (four feet wide at start line end), held until experienced dog returning has passed.
  • New dog is sent out over all 4 jumps (four feet wide at start line end), released just as experienced returning dog is passing.
  • New dog is sent out over all 4 jumps (four feet wide at start line end), released just before experienced returning dog is passing.
  • New dog is sent out over all 4 jumps (four feet wide at start line end), pass experienced dog at start / finish line.
  • Experienced dog is sent out over all 4 jumps (four feet wide at start line end), new dog is held until dog returning has passed.
  • Experienced dog is sent out over all 4 jumps (four feet wide at start line end), new dog is released just as dog returning has passed.
  • Experienced dog is sent out over all 4 jumps (four feet wide at start line end), new dog is released just before dog returning is passing.
  • Experienced dog is sent out over all 4 jumps (four feet wide at start line end), new dog passes at start / finish line.
  • Slowly reduce width of first jump to 2 feet (transition into 2 feet wide jumps process) while repeating sequence.

Introduce the Whole Sequence In one Lane (Begin to see the complete picture);

• Two dogs are run, holding passes, the new dog passing into the experienced one.
• Two dogs are run, holding passes, the experienced dog passing into the new one.
• Three dogs are run, holding passes, the new dog is run in the middle of the two experienced ones.
• Passes are gradually tightened until the new dog is comfortable passing into, and being passed by, another dog.

Raise Jumps to Competition Height (Build confidence and stamina);

• First and last jump remain at 7" height. Middle two jumps are raised by one inch. The dog runs the full course.
• Raise end jumps to match middle jumps.
• Raise middle jumps another inch.
• Repeat until all jumps are at full height for the dog.

Run with Other Lane in Use (See the complete picture);

• The new dog is released while an experienced dog in the other lane is running away from the start / finish line, towards the box. The release of the new dog starts when the experienced dog is at the box, then it is at the last jump, then the third jump, and so on until until they are reaching the start / finish line at roughly the same time (in opposite lanes, running in the same direction).
• The new dog is released while the experienced dog in the other lane is running towards the start / finish line, from the box. The release of the new dog starts when the experienced dog is crossing the finish line, then it is at the first jump, then the second jump, and so on until the new
• The new dog is released at the same time that an experienced dog is released in the other lane, running towards the box (one-on-one race).
• Run complete race with full teams in both lanes.
• Repeat full team races with other dogs to strengthen confidence for competition.

Run with full teams in both lanes (Ready to run in tournaments);

• Based upon the strengths of the new dog, run it in either start or anchor, with a team running in the opposite lane.
• Reverse lanes, and have new dog run against the other team in a different lane.
• Repeat until new dog is running in the order strongly.

In addition to turning off of the box, board, or wall at home, the following are exercises that can be easily completed at home throughout the training process to aid in tightening a dog's box turn, and increasing its (running) drive:

Reinforce the "Swimmer's Turn" (tighten the turn);

• Once again, this is best done at home. It will help to reinforce the quick turn when the flyball box is not available.
  • Place a pylon near a wall or similar barricade, placed far enough from the wall to allow the dog to easily turn inside the gap. Hold the dog in front of the pylon, offset very slightly to the side of its natural turn, while holding a ball to the side of the pylon opposite that which the dog will naturally turn (for example: a left turning dog would be offset slightly to the left of the pylon, and the ball would be held to the right of it).
  • Give command, "catch," and release the dog. Move the ball behind the pylon, causing the dog to follow it in the direction of its natural turn, and continue moving it around the pylon until it is a least on the opposite side of the pylon from where you started the 'sweep.' Release the ball in front of the dog as it reaches it. Reward, first with food, then slowly substitute the toy, upon retrieval. Repeat.
  • Once the dog is regularly following and retrieving the ball quickly, place a ball on the floor behind the pylon. Command, "catch" and release the dog. Reward upon return of the ball to you --- at the spot from which you released the dog. Repeat.
  • Extend the release distance. Repeat.
  • Introduce a board placed on a slight angle against the wall as the 'barricade,' and move the pylon closer to the wall (forcing the dog to touch the board). Progressively move the ball up the face of the board, having the dog place its feet onto the board before giving it the ball.
• This should be reinforced throughout the program.

Chase games and Tugging Sessions;

• Chase games, restrained recalls, and playing with a tug toy are all things that should be done at home, in the yard, etc. throughout the career of the flyball dog. These are fun games for the dog, and all increase its drive for running in competition.

After successfully completing these steps, the 'new' dog is ready to join a lineup for practice sessions.

Several practice sessions will build the confidence needed to permit the dog to have the chance to be exposed to the tournament atmosphere --- the last step before competition runs.

How Long Will This All Take?

No two dogs learn these basic skills at the same rate. It will take each dog as long as it takes that particular dog.

We have had dogs learn the basics in only a handful of sessions. We have had dogs learn it in a couple of months. We have found, however, that you should expect that a previously 'untrained' dog will take anywhere from 6 to 12 months from the time it starts this program until it is ready to gain its first (limited) experience at a tournament.

Dogs that begin this program with a background of other training generally progress at a much faster pace. We have found that prior agility training really speeds the process for the 'new' dog.

As with any training program, we have found that the speed at which the dog progresses is directly proportional to the amount of time that is put into its training at home, away from the Team sessions. A few short sessions conducted at home each week --- working on targeting, chasing / recalls, and retrieving will pay very big dividends.

Is This the End of the Training?

No. We do not stop training at this point. Once the dog has learned the basics, we spend time refining its skills, problem solving, and working on teamwork. Of course, we can always add newly learned techniques as we go.

Our dogs (and their handlers) are learning for as long as they play this game. It is a big part of the fun!