ON YOUR MARK
byMichael F. Randall
|
ON YOUR MARKbyMichael F. Randall |
On Your Mark, Copyright © December, 1987, revised 1990, 1991 by
Michael F. Randall. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA. No part of this
publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means
without permission in writing from the author, except by a reviewer who wishes
to quote brief passages in connection with a review written for inclusion in a
magazine, newspaper, broadcast or for the purpose of instructing students under
their direction.
Prepared for Web use and edited by Kathryn Hogg and Marty Fulton.
The sun was just coming up over the tall pines. The cool night air had left a
cover of morning dew on the grass. This peaceful park setting was to be the
site of an annual dog show. Handlers, in their best show attire, were busy
grooming their dogs. Dignified judges, peering over their eye glasses, were
busy inspecting the rings. The show committee had labored for months to ensure
everything would meet the discerning eye of the Kennel Club representative.
But, as observed by Ellen van Wageningen, of the Sun Times,
"This peaceful and dignified atmosphere surrounding the Grey-Bruce Kennel
and Obedience Club's dog show and obedience trial was temporarily shattered
when Ron English walked to the center ring Tuesday at noon. A knowing look
sparkled in the eyes of the dogs lying in the shade waiting to compete. A
bark of excitement escaped one dog, another let out a yelp. More barking.
Ears perked up across the park. Soon organizers and participants in the
Flyball competition were yelling at each other to communicate over the canine
commotion. All eyes were on one thing - the Flyball course. Two teams lined
up four dogs, a handler holding back each excited participant....the first
dogs exploded from the arms of their handlers...by this time the excitement
had infected more than the dogs, as spectators and handlers were yelling
encouragement at the top of their lungs."
Flyball racing is a fast and exciting sport, not only for the spectators and
handlers, but for the dogs as well. There are four dogs on a team with an
alternate or two. As the teams line up the excitement builds. With each dog
eager to compete, sometimes it's all the handler can do to hold their dogs. A
whistle signals the start of the race. The first dog from each team is
released. Racing side by side, each dog races down its lane, skillfully
hurdling a set of four jumps set ten feet apart. At the far end of each lane
is a Flyball box. Each dog must step on a Flyball box pedal releasing a
mechanism flipping a tennis ball from the cup. Hopefully, the dogs will catch
the ball (if not, the dog must retrieve the ball) and return over the four
jumps with the ball. As each dog crosses the start/finish line another eager
dog is released. The lead changes several times as dogs and handlers alike
make mistakes. Sometimes dogs chasing loose balls will miss a jump, or get
turned around all together and return over the wrong set of jumps. The first
team to have all four dogs successfully complete a run wins the heat.
Flyball, an offshoot of scent hurdle racing, was introduced in California in
the early 1970s by Herbert Wagner. Scent hurdle racing was already popular
around much of the country. In scent hurdle racing the dogs must go over four
jumps and pick up one of four articles - the article scented by the handler.
Each article is numbered 1 through 4. The dogs wore racing jackets identified
with the same number as their article. Herbert Wagner did a Flyball
demonstration on the Tonight Show. Soon, dog training clubs around the US and
Canada were putting on Flyball demonstrations at dog shows, nursing homes,
county fairs and schools. Many of the clubs had scent hurdle teams, making
the transition to Flyball easy. Furthermore, Flyball added another dimension
to their programs. Dog training clubs, most notably Sportsmen's Dog Training
Club of Detroit and McCann vs. McCann in the Toronto area, introduced Flyball
to the Great Lakes area. Other dog training clubs in the area picked up on
the sport and tournaments were soon organized. As more and more tournaments
were held it became apparent that it would be necessary to agree on one set
of rules. Thus, in November 1984, twelve teams from the Detroit/Toronto area
founded the North American Flyball Association.
I don't remember where or when I first saw Flyball. I do, however, remember
the first time Duffy, my Old English Sheepdog, went over all four jumps,
triggered the box and returned over all four jumps with the tennis ball. She
had only been introduced to Flyball a few weeks earlier and I was excited, as
most people are when their dog puts it all together for the first time. Like
most dogs involved with Flyball at our club, Duffy had some obedience training.
She had earned an obedience title, Companion Dog Excellent (CDX), from the
American Kennel Club. To train Duffy, I led her on lead back and forth over
the four jumps, again and again for several weeks. Occasionally, quite by
accident or with a little help, she would step on the pedal. Eventually, left
to chance, even Duffy got the idea. That was the way Flyball was taught then,
and still is in many training clubs - there were no books on Flyball, no
videos, no training manuals. However, Duffy, like many other dogs, never
became reliable. But then, an Old English Sheepdog and Flyball always pleased
the crowd regardless of whether or not she was reliable.
Our second dog, Aubrey, a Golden Retriever, was trained and handled by my
wife,Beckie. We started Aubrey much the same way. Before participating in
Flyball our training club required dogs have at least an AKC title, Companion
Dog (CD). Unlike Duffy, Aubrey had not been introduced to any of the open
exercises, namely, jumping and retrieving on command. Needless to say, any
Golden Retriever worth anything at all will retrieve. For Aubrey the training
was quite stressful, particularly the way it was taught then and sadly is
still being taught in many clubs by misinformed obedience instructors. None
the less, Beckie proceeded to train Aubrey. Initially, Beckie kept Aubrey on
lead. Again, as I had done with Duffy, Beckie ran Aubrey back and forth over
the jump, and occasionally, quite by accident or with a little help, Aubrey,
like the dogs before her, would step on the pedal. It wasn't long before
Aubrey was too fast to keep on lead, so we set up gating. Everything went
well as long as the gating was in place. As we began to remove the gating,
Beckie would run alongside, leading Aubrey over the jumps off lead. I could
not understand why any dog, let alone a happy, healthy, strong Golden
Retriever, would choose to go around a jump rather than over a jump. Beckie
seemed to be the only one benefiting from the daily workouts. Finally, again
quite by accident, Aubrey got the idea of going over the jumps at one of our
many nursing home visits. The floors had just been waxed. Aubrey, unsure of
her footing, made every effort to stay on the mats. There was only one mat
as we were doing the demonstration in a hall. The jumps just happened to be
in her way. Fortunately, Aubrey's experience with the waxed floor carried
over when we practiced at the club or put on other demonstrations. However,
I am not endorsing this technique, nor any technique that would leave anything
to chance. There are more effective techniques to shape desired behavior.
Nevertheless, after nearly a year of running Aubrey back and forth over the
jumps, over and over again, we decided Aubrey was ready to compete on the team.
Although she was not particularly fast, she was reliable, or so we thought.
In her first tournament, much to our surprise, she seemed to have forgotten
everything she had learned. Later we would attribute this apparent lapse of
memory to a phenomenon that
Karen Pryor, a behaviorist and dolphin
trainer, refers to as the "new tank syndrome". It seems that
regardless of how well dolphins learn a given behavior, the first time they
are placed in a new tank they seem to forget all previously learned behavior.
Unfortunately, we didn't recognize it as such at the time, and we went back to
running Aubrey back and forth over the jumps, again and again.
After months of training we finally thought Aubrey could compete again. We
entered several tournaments the following year and Aubrey had indeed become
quite reliable. Soon after, we noted Aubrey was faster as well. At the time
we credited the improvement to experience. To some degree we were right, but
not entirely. The improvement was three fold - experience, breaking down the
exercise and obedience training.
By now we had started to break the Flyball exercise down, primarily at the
advice of Jane Justice. Jane had a Rottweiler in Flyball. Rosco had learned
Flyball in a very short time, but, unlike others dogs that had learned Flyball
in a short time, Rosco was reliable. Jane had broken down the exercise,
working the jumps and the box separately. This seemed to be a very successful
technique, and to my knowledge had never been done before in Flyball.
Furthermore, Beckie, discouraged with obedience training, began taking lessons
from Ted Aranda, a top dog trainer. Ted had done extensive work in operant
conditioning and motivation, and had great success applying those principles
to obedience training. Ted also encouraged handlers to break down the
obedience exercises in small increments, teaching each exercise independently
and then building the behavior in blocks or chains. Ted was working with
Beckie and Aubrey to reduce the level of stress Aubrey had displayed with
various obedience exercises. What Aubrey was learning in Ted's obedience
class had carried over to Flyball. Soon, we began to apply those same
principles to Flyball. We found, while the exercises were different, the
principles of shaping behavior, backward chaining, positive reinforcement and
reducing stress could be applied to Flyball, just as Ted had applied them to
obedience. Indeed, many of the principles had been used for years to train
tracking and other working dogs. Furthermore, Ted introduced me to some work by
Karen Pryor, a dolphin trainer,
behaviorist and author of "Don't Shoot the Dog",
"Lads before the Wind", and "Teach Your Dog Frisbee"
. She had been using the techniques of operant conditioning, shaping
behavior, backward chaining, and positive reinforcement for years to train
dolphins as well as dogs, although she admits that her experience with dogs is
limited. By now we had our third dog, Wyn, a Border Collie puppy, and I was
not going to leave anything to chance.
Dog Training is an active ongoing process that should not be left to chance.
There are numerous techniques of documented success that trainers can apply.
Techniques based on behavior modification studies and operant conditioning can
be used to train top Flyball dogs. A systematic approach to shape your dog's
behavior takes more time to see results than simply running your dog back and
forth, again and again. However, we have found the dogs are more reliable,
highly motivated, and self reliant. When we purchased, Wyn, our first Border
Collie puppy, several trainers also purchased Border Collies, convinced as I
was that Border Collies were naturally suited for Flyball. I took a
systematic approach to training Wyn. Of course, I wasn't the first, nor the
only one, to use these techniques in Flyball. Wyn and those trained this way
turned out to be excellent Flyball dogs. Of the others, whose training was
left to chance - many also turned out to be excellent Flyball dogs. Many more
did not. Even today, many of those that happened by chance to be excellent
Flyball dogs still have occasional problems--problems that are not easily
corrected.
While the techniques pointed out in this manual have been successful for me,
it is not to say it is the only way to train a dog. Even left to chance many
dogs do very well. Before we explore the techniques to shape our dogs
behavior, it is necessary to look a little closer at the sport of Flyball, the
set-up, some rules, and the equipment we will need for training. In later
chapters, we will explore behavior and the principles of shaping behavior. In
the end your dog will be happy, self-reliant, highly motivated, in control,
intense and reliable. Of course, you could leave it to chance.
As mentioned in the first chapter, Flyball racing is a fast and exciting sport.
There are four dogs on a team with an alternate or two. Racing side by side,
each dog races down their lane. At the far end of each lane is a Flyball box.
Each dog must step on the Flyball box pedal, releasing a mechanism that flips a
tennis ball from the cup. The dogs catch the ball (if not, the dog must
retrieve the ball) and return over the four jumps with the ball. As each dog
crosses the start/finish line another dog is released. The first team to have
all four dogs successfully complete a run wins the heat.
Flyball jumps are solid, white, and are to have an inside width of 24 inches
(between the uprights), with the height varying from 8 inches to 16 inches
(minimum and maximum heights). The jumps are set four inches lower than the
shoulder height of the smallest dog on the team. The jump height shall be
adjustable in one inch increments. The uprights are to be no more than
36 inches high, nor less than 24 inches high.
The Flyball box can be any design as long as it performs the desired function;
namely, the dog depresses a pedal on the front of the box that releases a
tennis ball for the dog to catch (or retrieve should the dog fail to catch the
ball). Near the back of this book is a list of several commercially available
Flyball boxes, as well as a few designs, if you happen to be handy with tools.
Since this book was written, NAFA has added some restrictions to
boxes used in tournaments. The maximum width, height, and depth is 24",
18", and 30" respectively. Furthermore, the ball must be thrown
such that it lands on the ground 2 feet in front of the release point.
Other than grass, the ideal running surface is soft, durable sponge vinyl ring
matting. Rubber matting, in addition to being heavy, does not give sure
footing, nor does it cushion the shock of landing. Carpet alone can cause
severe rug burns after only a few runs; however, carpet with vinyl matting is
an excellent surface for Flyball.
The North American Flyball Association is the ruling body for NAFA-sanctioned
Flyball competition. A complete set of NAFA Rules and Policies can be
purchased from NAFA. Before you compete in or host a NAFA sanctioned Flyball
tournament you should have a thorough understanding of NAFA Rules and Policies.
Without going into great detail, the following rules generally apply:
You should carry a water jug with you, plenty of treats and plastic bags to
pick up where your dog leaves off. You will need a training collar and a plain
leather or web collar - one that does not tighten around the dog's neck when
it is being restrained. As previously mentioned, sometimes it is all a handler
can do to hold their dog. Some handlers prefer Flyball collars - web collars
with an extra strap or handle sewn on the outside. One individual even used a
tracking harness to restrain her dog. A tracking harness is non-restrictive
when the dog runs, and yet the dog can still breath while being restrained.
Most handlers have learned to restrain their dogs by holding them around the
shoulders or better yet, they train their dog not to pull on the lead.
I prefer a three foot leather lead. Although, the more common six foot leather
or a cloth web lead is fine. I seldom use a lead when training. A lead may
not be necessary and can even hinder the training - its just one more thing to
deal with. However, a lead is required when there are strange dogs around or
when taking your dog to and from the building or where there is any traffic.
The degree of control you have on your dog and the degree of control others
have on their dog will dictate whether or not to use a lead.
You will need a long line for retrieving, teaching the command come and quick
turns. In the early stages of teaching the retrieve some dogs will not want
to bring the ball back. By having the dog on a long line you will guide the
dog back. A 40 foot web cloth lead is preferred for corrections.
Finally, you may want a retractable Flex-lead. However, Flex-leads have
limited applications. A Flex-lead will retract and allow you to work with the
dog without getting the lead tangled up with the jumps or around the dog's
legs. With some dogs it is virtually impossible to run with them and a long
line will just get tangled up. Flex-leads can thus be used in warm-ups and
practice to correct the dog for a slow turn, for going after loose balls or
chasing other dogs. Flex-leads are also great for taking the dog for a walk.
Flyball competition is generally divided into divisions based on a team's best
time. Thus, divisions allow for a variety of breeds. Teams with one or two
Newfoundlands are not likely to compete against teams with four Border Collies.
Furthermore, jumps are set four inches below the height of the smallest dog on
the team. Many teams have a smaller dog - allowing them to lower the jumps
for the other dogs. While this can be an advantage, it is not to say that
four large dogs are necessarily at a disadvantage. Indeed, many NAFA records
have been set by four dogs jumping the full sixteen (16) inches.
From time to time, competition is offered for teams with multibreeds only - all
four dogs racing must be of a different breed. Multi-breed only competition,
divisions, and the jump height make Flyball fun for a variety of breeds. As of
the fall of 1990, 712 North American dogs had earned points toward a Flyball
title - 210 had earned the title Flyball Dog (FD), 156 had earned the title
Flyball Dog Excellent (FDX) and 166 had earned the title Flyball Dog Champion
(FDCH). Table 3-1, list the many different breeds (and number) registered with
NAFA as of the fall of 1990.
Neither females nor males have a particular advantage. I prefer training
females. Males, on the other hand, are generally stronger and faster, but
females are lighter and quicker off the box. With some breeds the natural
stride of the large males, compared to the female, can be a problem - for
example, the jumps only being 10 feet apart can be a problem for the larger
male Doberman Pinscher.
I am not a strong supporter of puppy testing. While puppy testing might
indicate extremes, they will not indicate whether or not a dog is going to be a
good Flyball dog. None of my dogs showed interest in retrieving at 6 or 7
weeks. To see them now you might have a hard time believing they were several
months old before they would bring me a tennis ball.
If you are buying a puppy buy one from working parents. These puppies will
generally have all the instincts and intelligence not found in a majority of
the conformation dogs. There's not much you can tell about a dog's natural
instincts when the dog spends the majority of its time in the kennel or being
paraded around a show ring. The instincts that make the dog a good working dog
will also make it a good Flyball dog.
If there is a standard for a Flyball dog, the dog should be friendly and
outgoing, fast and agile, one who loves a tennis ball and has a dedicated
handler and trainer. Dogs that are not outgoing and friendly can make
excellent Flyball dogs, provided they are not aggressive when excited, while
playing or otherwise. During competition or practice the dogs can become
excited. In playful excitement, dogs have been known to bite other dogs and
even handlers. To my knowledge none has ever bitten a judge or spectator.
Nonetheless, aggressive behavior whether out of playfulness, because of the
dog's natural instincts or otherwise is not allowed in Flyball. Aggressive
dogs will be excused from competition and reported to the NAFA. Depending on
the nature of the aggression or in the case of a second offense, the dog will
be barred from competing in an NAFA-sanctioned tournament. Reinstatement will
be difficult.
In summary, I prefer females to males, medium size dogs from 18 inches to 22
inches at the withers, friendly, outgoing, fast and agile, and tennis ball
crazy. They need not be black and white, but black and white dogs go nice with
our black and white uniforms. Border Collies and female Doberman Pinschers
seem ideally suited for Flyball. However, most any breed if trained properly
is capable of running under six seconds. There are few teams that could not
use a dog that runs under six seconds. Some of the smaller breeds jumping 8 to
10 inches will not run under six seconds, but they do lower the jumps for the
team. Again, there are few teams that wouldn't love a small dog on their team.
The dog need not be a natural retriever, but it helps. Any dog, purebred or
mixed, from the Humane Society or from a long line of champions, will make an
excellent Flyball dog, provided the dog does not have any abnormal problems
due to breeding, training or previous experiences.
Just as there is a distinction between favorable and unfavorable behavior,
trainers need to make a distinction between unfavorable behavior, undesirable
behavior and problem behavior. Unfavorable behavior is associated with
training problems, such as cutting the jumps or dropping the ball.
Unacceptable behavior might include not coming when called, and uncontrolled
play. Problem behaviors include housebreaking, chewing, digging and aggressive
behavior. The only problem behavior we will address is aggressive behavior.
To correct behavior we have several options as pointed out by behaviorist and
trainer, Karen Pryor. The trainer could shoot the dog; correct the behavior
with negative reinforcement (collar correction); put the behavior on cue;
shape the absence of the behavior (reinforce any and all behavior that is not
the unfavorable behavior); change the motivation; ignore the behavior
(extinction); or focus on training an incompatible behavior.
Shooting the dog, putting the behavior on cue, shaping the absence of the
behavior and changing the motivation are techniques generally reserved for
serious behavior problems. It is not the intent of this manual to deal with
serious behavior problems. Therefore, our discussions will be limited to using
negative reinforcement, ignoring the behavior and training incompatible
behavior; that is, training favorable behavior that is incompatible with
unfavorable behavior.
Correcting behavior with negative reinforcement is effective in both
unfavorable behavior and unacceptable behavior provided the trainer keeps in
mind two concepts. First, corrections are never used to teach the dog a new
behavior. Second, corrections vary in intensity on a scale of one to ten, with
one being very low in intensity and ten being very high in intensity. If you
are trying to shape behavior you correct unfavorable behavior by starting with
an intensity of one. I seldom progress beyond a simple "eh-eh." On the other
hand, to stop or correct unacceptable behavior, start with an intensity of ten.
The other technique to correct unfavorable behavior is to ignore the behavior.
If you elect to ignore the behavior, always follow up by training the dog to a
behavior incompatible with the unfavorable behavior. If, for example, you
elect to ignore the dog when it cuts around a jump, and I often do, then
always follow up by training an incompatible behavior; namely, going over the
jump. To train an incompatible behavior, you may have to regress to a point
where the dog can not fail - to a level where success is guaranteed.
Reinforcement is not a process of bribes and rewards. A bribe is a means to
solicit, to request or plea for a response that has not yet occurred. Rewards
occur after the behavior. Since you cannot explain to the dog that the reward
is for past behavior, the dog does not correlate the reward with the behavior.
This can be said even of rewards for behavior that occur only moments or
seconds before. Rather, dogs learn to associate rewards with ongoing behavior.
The same can be said for punishment. Since you cannot explain to the dog that
the punishment is for behavior that occurred a few moments before, then the dog
cannot correlate the punishment with the behavior. Bribes, rewards and
punishment will not shape a dog's behavior. Only reinforcement paired with the
behavior can effectively shape behavior. The same is true of corrections.
Only corrections paired with the behavior can effectively shape the behavior.
When training dogs, immediate feedback is essential. If reinforcement is not
immediate, any ongoing behavior will be reinforced in lieu of the desired
behavior. Furthermore, unless reinforcement occurs while the behavior is
ongoing, it cannot be considered reinforcement, but rather a bribe, a reward or
punishment. Although food and toys, even a game of chase, are often used to
elicit, draw forth or bring out the initial response, they should never be
used to reward a response, nor solicit, request or plea for a response.
Reinforcements derive their ability to shape behavior because they serve as
motivaters and provide information or feedback to the dog. Both are essential
to the learning process. Positive reinforcement increases the probability that
the behavior will occur again. A correction is something the dog will work to
avoid. Since reinforcement and corrections are feedback to the dog, it must
be timely and predictable. Commands, signals or cues that are intended to get
the desired response must predict positive reinforcement. It is not enough
that the dog simply respond to the command, signal or cue. More important is
that the correct response predicts positive reinforcement. Further, failure to
respond must predict a correction. Consequently, the dog will learn to avoid
behavior that predicts a correction and will look to repeat behavior that
predicts positive reinforcement.
Primary reinforcements are those that reinforce behavior independent of an
association with other reinforcers. They are often associated with satisfying
some natural instinct or drive. Examples of primary reinforcement include food
(hunger), a toy (need to play) and a game of chase (need to hunt). It is
important to note that while a ball may satisfy one dog's need to play it may
not satisfy another. Therefore, select an appropriate primary reinforcement.
Primary reinforcement can also be negative such as a collar correction. All
animals have natural instincts to withdraw or escape adverse stimuli, just as
you or I would withdraw our hand from a hot stove burner.
A conditioned reinforcement's ability to reinforce behavior results from an
association with a primary reinforcement. Conditioned reinforcements are as
real and as potent as primary reinforcement. For example, most dogs learn to
associate the owner picking up a set of keys with something pleasant. The keys
become a real and potent conditioned reinforcement. Conditioned reinforcement
are useful in dog training when it is impossible to immediately reinforce the
behavior with a primary reinforcement. The conditioned reinforcement acts as
a bridge. The trainer signals the dog that "Yes - you are right" with a
conditioned reinforcement. Moments later, the primary reinforcement becomes a
reward for a behavior that has already been reinforced with a conditioned
reinforcement. Although the primary reinforcement has no effect on the
behavior being shaped, it does help to establish a positive attitude toward
training and reinforces the conditioned reinforcements ability to reinforce.
The schedule of reinforcement may be continuous or variable. With a continuous
schedule of reinforcement the reinforcement is given for every appropriate
behavior. Since learning is more rapid with a continuous schedule of
reinforcement, and since we desire to establish a correlation between the
reinforcement, the command and the behavior, follow a schedule of continuous
reinforcement until the behavior is established. However, once the behavior
has been established, constant reinforcement results in saturation. And,
selective and variable reinforcement are essential to raise the criteria or
maintain the behavior.
A variable schedule of reinforcement has been found to be effective in
maintaining learned behavior. Furthermore, variable reinforcement produces
more durable behavior. Consequently, all the things that can go wrong at a
Flyball tournament are less likely to effect behavior established with
continuous reinforcement, but maintained with variable reinforcement.
The bridge between continuous reinforcement and variable reinforcement is a
schedule of selective reinforcement. You shape the desired behavior with
selective reinforcement. Selective reinforcement is a process by which you
reinforce only your dog's best efforts. Further, using selective reinforcement
you can raise the criteria. The dog trying to overcome some obstacle will try
several responses, ultimately hitting one that gets reinforced.
As your dog more consistently performs the desired behavior, your selective
reinforcement begins to more closely resemble a schedule of continuous
reinforcement - nearly every effort is reinforced. At this stage the trainer
maintains the behavior with a schedule of variable reinforcement, then further
shapes the behavior by again raising the criteria using selective
reinforcement. By going from selective reinforcement to variable reinforcement,
and then from variable reinforcement to selective reinforcement, and so on, you
continually raise the dog's response to a higher level of performance.
Food is an effective motivation in training dogs because food is a primary
reinforcement. Since food is a primary drive or motivater for dogs it has the
ability to reinforce behavior independent of an association with other
reinforcers. Food, unlike praise, generates a specific response; it motivates
decision and action. Although praise is an excellent reinforcer, it does not
in itself generate a specific response. Praise alone does not motivate
decision and action. Food, like praise, can also be used to relieve stress.
Furthermore, food or other primary reinforcers when paired with a particular
cue, establishes the cue as a conditioned reinforcement. The cue can be a
command such as "Jump," "Come," "Sit," or "Stay," or the cue can be a phrase
such as "On Your Mark" or "Lets go for a walk." The cue can also be an object
such as keys, a tennis ball, a Flyball box or even a jump.
People that use food improperly make the mistake of assuming behavior shaping
techniques do not work. Frequently, handlers continue to use food as a target
or bribe beyond the initial stages of the learning phase. Or, food is given
too late and the wrong behavior is reinforced. Furthermore, if food is not
paired with a cue, or command, there is no correlation between the primary
reinforcement and the cue. Sometimes, food is even given with a correction,
giving the dog conflicting feedback. Also, if food is given for no reason or for a
poor response to the command, you are giving your dog feedback that does not
communicate to your dog what you expect.
Still others stay on a schedule of continuous reinforcement, never raising the
criteria or never going to a schedule of variable reinforcement. If a constant
schedule of reinforcement is maintained for any length of time, without raising
the criteria, the behavior will fade. Eventually, it becomes nearly impossible
to raise the criteria. If you try to raise the criteria after being on a
schedule of continuous reinforcement for any long period of time, the dog will
quit, discouraged that it is not being reinforced on the continuous
schedule that it has come to expect. The dog may even perform the
exercise several times, but try and raise the criteria and the dog is confused
because it did not get the reinforcement and will quit trying. The food then
becomes nothing more than a bribe that may work a few times at best. A
variable schedule of reinforcement is essential to maintain the behavior or to
raise the criteria.
A technique used in operant conditioning is a term called shaping. Shaping is
a process by which the trainer first determines how closely the dog is able to
perform a desired behavior with minimal assistance. Once the initial level is
determined the trainer uses food as a target to elicit a response from the dog.
With each successive effort the trainer further shapes the behavior. The dog's
behavior is further shaped each time by reinforcing successive approximations.
Each successive approximation or response more closely resembles the desired
behavior.
During the learning stage the dog is always set up to succeed as the behavior
is shaped in small increments in the direction of the desired behavior. One
school of thought is to set the dog up to fail - thus the trainer is given an
opportunity to correct the dog. The dog learns very quickly what not to do,
and is left to guess what the handler wants. Stress training is not effective.
It's inhumane and cruel. While mild corrections are important in helping the
dog during the learning stages and shaping the dog's behavior, corrections that
stop the learning process should not be used to shape behavior.
Behavior shaping focuses on the dog's ongoing behavior. More important than
the causes related to the past is what is happening at the moment. By
observing the dog's behavior, we can begin to shape the desired behavior. If
the behavior is not precisely what is desired, we shape the behavior starting
at a point where we assume the behavior is yet unlearned. As you shape the
dogs behavior remember:
Use small reinforcements. In shaping behavior, many small reinforcements work
better than a few big ones. A dog will learn more quickly for ten small
reinforcements, rather than one large reinforcement for an equal number of
behaviors.
The behavior controls the reinforcement. When the reinforcement controls the
behavior it no longer is reinforcement, but rather it is a bribe.
Corrections must be paired with the behavior--unavoidable, immediate and
sufficient to interrupt the behavior. Corrections are feedback to the dog and
lead to avoidance responses. Just as positive reinforcement makes behavior
more likely to recur, corrections, which initially induce an escape response,
also make certain behaviors more likely to occur, as the dog learns to avoid
the behavior that predicts a correction. Corrections must be unavoidable and
paired with the undesirable behavior; otherwise, the dog quickly learns to avoid
the correction--not the behavior associated with the correction.
Furthermore, if the correction is not paired with the behavior the correction
is merely punishment which the dog does not understand or associate with the
undesired behavior. Therefore, the correction must be paired with a cue. Just
as a child learns to associate the cue "HOT" with something very unpleasant,
the dog should learn to associate the cue "NO" with something very unpleasant,
namely, a collar correction. This is initially taught independent of any
ongoing behavior for three reasons. First, because when the trainer needs to
use the command it is highly unlikely that the dog will be able to learn to
associate the correction with something unpleasant. The first time most
handlers use the cue "NO" is when the dog is going through the garbage, chewing
on a piece of furniture, or chasing a squirrel. Indeed, most dogs learn to
associate the cue "NO" with something fun. What they cannot understand is
that the owner is not equally as excited.
Second, when the dog is playing or being aggressive, corrections are rarely
intense enough to effect the ongoing behavior. The dogs simply do not feel the
correction. Yelling and corrections at that point, unless paired with
something unpleasant independent of the behavior, only further excite the dog.
Finally, in a complex behavior chain such as Flyball where one behavior
immediately follows another, it becomes impossible to pair the correction
with any one behavior. Within five to six seconds as many as 15 to 20 behaviors
occur - some simultaneously. Pairing the correction with any one behavior
cannot be done, unless the correction is paired with the behavior independent
of the behavior chain.
Reinforce avoidance responses, not escape responses. If you correct the dog,
the response will be an escape response. If you then reinforce that response
with a piece of food you are giving the dog two pieces of conflicting
information - one positive and one negative. Does the response predict positive
reinforcement or negative reinforcement? Do not reinforce an escape response,
unless the dog is stressed by the correction. If however, the dog's response
to the cue is an avoidance response (namely, the dog avoids the behavior that
predicts a correction), the response should be reinforced. All too often the
dog will either respond to the cue, and get corrected anyway, or the dog will
not respond, will get corrected and then be reinforced. The dog will eventually
learn, but the learning process will be very stressful for the dog.
Follow escape responses with avoidance responses. Corrections should be
feedback to the dog. However, the correction should not end there.
Corrections should help the dog, tell the dog it is wrong, followed by
giving the dog an opportunity to correct itself. Only in this way
will corrections become valuable feedback to the dog, rather than a source of
stress. The learning process is much improved when you are told, "No, you
are wrong, try again .... Yes, you are right."
Be predictable. Being predictable is more than being consistent.
Being predictable is the basis for all communication between you and your dog.
Corrections must be predictable, so the dog learns to avoid the behavior that
predicts a correction, not the correction itself. Reinforcement must also be
predictable.
Additional laws for shaping behavior should include the following from Karen
Pryor's book, "Don't Shoot the Dog":
Shape one behavior at a time: Do not shape two behaviors
simultaneously. It is not always easy to distinguish between two simultaneous
behaviors and a single behavior. To avoid this pitfall, determine ahead of time
what particular behavior it is that you want to shape. If it is quick turns,
work on quick turns, not quick turns and catching the ball.
When shaping unlearned behavior the dog needs time to process the information.
Working on two behaviors simultaneously is asking the dog to process too much
information. Either one behavior will override the other or the dog will become
confused and either quit or make mistakes trying desperately to please the
trainer.
Always put the current level of response on a variable schedule before
raising the criteria: Many trainers make the mistake of assuming one behavior has
been learned when in reality the behavior has only been simulated. You can
easily be led into believing the dog has learned a certain behavior because
they have learned to simulate the behavior. Sooner or later behavior that is
being simulated will break down. What appears to be a sudden lapse of memory
is not uncommon in dog training. The dog, making steady progress, suddenly
seems to have forgotten everything. Although different than problems
associated with new environments (new tank syndrome), the results are the same.
Fortunately, correcting the problem is equally as simple. Relax, reshape the
desired behavior and in a few sessions your dog will be making steady progress
once again. A good trainer will recognize the phenomenon, and rather than
being discouraged and frustrated will be encouraged. For it is at this moment
in the training that the dog is actually beginning for the first time to
actually learn the behavior. Until now the dog has simply been simulating the
behavior.
Only if the behavior is on a schedule of variable reinforcement can you be
certain the behavior is indeed learned and under stimulus control.
Plan your shaping program: There is an old adage that goes "failing to
plan is planning to fail." Planning is a dynamic process. The plan itself is
only a snapshot of any process at any given time. A larger number of "what if"
scenarios should be considered to handle each situation. Stay ahead of your
dog. If your dog makes sudden progress be prepared recognize appropriate
behavior as well as inappropriate behavior. Reinforce the appropriate behavior.
Often dogs either by accident or even with some forethought put together the
next progressive step. Its important in the learning process and to the
ultimate stabilization of the desired response that the dog is reinforced upon
selection of the desired response. Furthermore, unless prepared you might not
know what and when to reinforce. Furthermore, you will not accidentally
reinforce the wrong response. There is no cookbook when shaping behavior and
building behavior chains. It requires close observation and analysis of
ongoing behavior, and a mental picture of the desired behavior.
If one shaping technique is not working, try another: If the behavior
is not being shaped in a reasonable length of time, review your shaping process
and reinforcement to ensure you are not violating one or more of the essential
laws. If not, review the path you have selected to shape the desired behavior.
The shaping process can take many directions, with as many ways to shape a
given behavior as there are trainers to train it.
Avoid interrupting a training session: It is important in the learning
process that successive approximations are successive. Each time a training
session is interrupted you lose momentum.
If the behavior breaks down, repeat the shaping process. There are any number
of things that can cause learned behavior to break down. By simply progressing
through each successive step used to shape a given behavior you can again
establish previously learned behavior. If a problem develops in a tournament
or even in practice, progressing through each successive step will identify the
problem and the solution, often in a matter of minutes. In a tournament you
might even correct a problem between heats.
End each exercise on a positive note: Ending on a positive note is
twofold. First, if your dog becomes confused, stressed or even tired, back up
to a point that your dog is confident and success is assured. Remember, as a
trainer you do not have to win all the time. Although goals for each training
session are important, meeting those goals might hinder training. Your most
important goals should always be developing a positive attitude, respect and a
bond. Second, by applying the principles of backward chaining, even with simple
behaviors, we always end on a positive note. Chapter 9 will focus on the
process of backward chaining and why it is a preferred learning process.
When introducing new criteria, temporarily relax old criteria: Until
the dog gets used to the new criteria, learned behavior may appear to be
forgotten. The behavior is not forgotten. The dog faced with the new criteria
must focus on the new criteria.
This is perhaps most apparent with the jumping. Having learned to single step
over the jumps set eight inches high and ten feet apart, the dog must learn to
single step when the jumps are raised to ten inches. To make the transition
easier we often move the jumps in a little closer the first few times that the
jumps are raised. Gradually, we can move the jumps until they are again ten
feet apart.
A variable schedule of reinforcement has been found to be more effective in
maintaining learned behavior than a continuous schedule of reinforcement.
Variable (predictably unpredictable or intermittent) reinforcements produce
more durable behavior.
The bridge between continuous reinforcement and variable reinforcement is a
schedule of selective reinforcement. You shape behavior with selective
reinforcement. Selective reinforcement is a process by which you reinforce
only your dog's best efforts. Furthermore, by using selective reinforcement you
can raise the criteria. The dogs that learn if they don't first succeed in getting
a reinforcement, they can try, try again. Therefore, without discouraging
them, you can let them go without reinforcement for the wrong response and
selectively reinforce just the responses you like. The dog trying to overcome
some obstacle will try several responses until ultimately it finds one that
gets it the reinforcement. For this reason it essential that once the
behavior is established the dog is placed on a schedule of variable
reinforcement. Otherwise the dog will become discouraged when it does not get
the expected reinforcement. Raising the criteria with selective reinforcement
will be next to impossible.
As your dog more consistently performs the desired behavior your selective
reinforcement begins to more closely resemble a schedule of continuous
reinforcement - every effort is worthy of reinforcement. At this stage the
trainer can then maintain the behavior with a schedule of variable
reinforcement or further shapes the behavior by again raising the criteria
using a schedule of selective reinforcement.
To establish the final desired behavior use a loop process of selective
reinforcement to raise the criteria in an incremental step and a schedule of
variable reinforcement to maintain the behavior at the new level of
performance. Then, again using selective reinforcement, raise the criteria in
an incremental step to the next higher level of performance. Maintain the
behavior using variable reinforcement. This process of raising the criteria,
maintaining the response at the higher level, then repeating the process over
and over until the final desired behavior is reached is a loop - more precisely
a selective-variable reinforcement loop. Much like a computer program with a
loop that starts at x = 1 and ends at x = 10, a selective-variable
reinforcement loop starts where the dog simulates some behavior that is
similar to or will lead to the final desired behavior. This is illustrated in
Diagram 6-1.
It should be noted that getting used to new criteria will often interfere with
previously learned behavior. As trainers we must relax the criteria for
previous learned behavior when introducing new behaviors. For example, if the
dog is comfortable with the jumps ten feet apart, when we raise the jumps for
the first time it might be necessary to move the jumps in slightly. Once the
dog is comfortable at the new height, we can gradually move the jumps until
they are again ten feet apart.
Corrections are not introduced until the dog has learned the exercise to near
perfection. Corrections are never used to teach an exercise, only to establish
a reliable response. To set the dog up just to correct the dog is not
effective in the learning stages. Although not always possible, during the
learning process training should be free of any distractions. Only after the
dog has learned the behavior should we introduce distractions, escape responses
and avoidance responses. Unless disruptive or out of control in a class
situation the trainer should not correct the dog. Once the behavior is learned
we can then address situations where the dog becomes distracted.
Unfortunately the exercises do not follow a simple straight-forward sequence.
Rather, each exercise is related in a complex training process best illustrated
in Diagram 7-1. However, to simplify the training
process we can focus our
attention to four (4) major events or behaviors indicated on
Diagram 7-1 with a diamond - the retrieve, the
outrun, the return run and triggering the box. All other exercises illustrated
in Diagram 7-1 are merely shaping exercises in the
training process or exercises designed to prepare the dog for actual
competition.
That is not to say that these exercises are any less important. The reason we
teach each exercise and work on each exercise regularly is to establish the
behavior independent of other behaviors. In this manner problems either at a
tournament or at practice can be corrected without setting up the jumps,
backstops and boxes.
Furthermore, Diagram 7-1 illustrates a training
process from beginning to end. In reality, the trainer will never finish the
training. Always work on the foundation established during the training
process. A typical practice that might routinely include a number of the
exercises is illustrated in Table 7-1.
Also, Diagram 7-1 places the exercises in various categories. The student
should realize that some dogs may progress very rapidly at one or more
exercises and less rapidly at other exercises. Another dog may progress at an
entirely different rate. You will find some dogs working on advance exercises,
and at the same time, having difficulty with what may seem very simple and
basic exercises to other dogs. Often the training process may be in a holding
pattern, waiting until one or more exercises can be added to the process before
proceeding on.
Diagram 7-1 offers an insight to the training process and will identify
those behaviors that need to be established before you can expect to proceed to
the next step in the training process. Also, if you are having difficulty with
one or more of the exercises, Diagram 7-1 will help to identify where you have
gone wrong. Perhaps you have taken part of the exercise for granted or even
overlooked one or more steps.
Exercises typically taught in the beginning Flyball class are indicated with a
single line box. Exercises taught in the advanced class are indicated with a
double line box.
Much of dog training is based on known pack behavior. In the wild, the pack
works as a team in hunting and defending its territory. To function well the
pack must exist with minimum conflict. Struggles within the pack are kept to a
minimum by the natural tendencies to be either a leader of a follower, to
dominate or submit.
Dr. Michael W. Fox, in his book "Understanding Your Dog" points out
that dogs have a "natural tendency to assert their dominance. Pack
aggression is reduced to ritual displays of domination and subordination. Play
contributes to the establishment of social interaction based on dominance and
subordination. The result is the control of aggression within the pack."
Socializing. Expose your dog to different surroundings.
Visit nursing homes, hospitals, fun matches, fairs and shopping centers.
Initially, do not put added stress on the dog by asking it to perform.
Allow your dog to adapt to the new surroundings. When your dog is confident
with the new surroundings or if you must introduce a dog to a new environment,
refresh its training with easily reinforced behavior shaping exercises.
Regardless of how well a dog has learned a behavior, the first time it is
placed in a new environment the dog will temporarily forget all previously
learned behavior. This is another reason socializing your dog is so important.
When in an unfamiliar or new environment reshape your dogs behavior using the
progressive steps used to initially train your dog. When entering a tournament
with new dogs, I prefer to introduce the dogs using a technique known as
backward chaining. Backward chaining is discussed in great detail in Chapter
8.
Follow Me. This exercise is primarily for puppies from 8 to 12
weeks old. The exercise combines the "Come" with taking your puppy for a walk.
For this exercise, take your puppy on a walk without a leash. The area must be
free of distractions, preferably with no other people around. Most two and
three month old puppies won't want to get too far away (wait until the dog is
6 or 7 months old and this won't necessarily be the case). Go for a walk
together and when the puppy gets about twenty feet away, get the puppy's
attention by calling its name and clapping your hands. When it looks at
you, kneel down and call it to you. Give it lots of praise and continue your
walk. Occasionally walk away from your puppy encouraging your puppy to follow
you. This will establish yourself as a pack leader; you are teaching the puppy
the command come and establishing a bond between you and your puppy. Equally
important, you are establishing a comfort zone for your puppy. The puppy that
is unsure at this age will feel uncomfortable twenty or twenty-five feet away;
near you the dog will be comfortable and secure. As the puppy gets older the
instinct to stay near you has been established.
Comfort Zone. I like to establish a comfort zone with a
puppy. One way is to teach the puppy that when outside a certain distance from
the handler, say four to five feet it can expect some discomfort. If
the puppy does not immediately respond to the handlers command "Come" (when
outside that comfort zone), the puppy will get a light but firm correction on
the rear end. If the puppy is within the comfort zone it can expect
nothing but fun and pleasant experiences. Although establishing a comfort
zone for an older dog can be done, it is more difficult than with a puppy of 8
or 9 weeks. Puppies are unsure of themselves at this age and respond very well
to establishing a comfort zone. Furthermore, once the puppy is 10 to 12 weeks
old it might be difficult to reach down and give it a light but firm
correction.
As the puppy matures the comfort zone will automatically expand; however, that
security of being near the handler (and the insecurity of being too far away)
has been established and will be difficult to break. It is possible and even
desirable to be able to expand that comfort zone naturally, by allowing the dog
more freedom with age. A simple "No" can be used to establish a new boundary
for that comfort zone, provided the command "No" predicts a negative
reinforcement. Certainly, for Flyball the comfort zone should ultimately be
expanded to 75 or 80 feet.
Restrained Recall/Chase. Have a friend restrain your dog.
Give the cue, "Ready" or "On Your Mark," release the dog with the command
"Come". The handler then turns and runs in the opposite direction, away from
the dog. Later, we will use the restrained recall over one jump, then two,
three and so on. The outrun is similar to a restrained recall, only with the
outrun the dog is released by the handler to chase a ball. Later, we will use
the restrained outrun over one jump, then two, three and so on.
Take Hold Give. Play retrieve is a great way to introduce
your dog to the retrieve. However, a more formal command "Take, Hold and Give"
should be introduced. The command "Take" must predict positive reinforcement.
Initially, it should be paired with a treat. Next you should have your dog
"Give" the article. Later, we can introduce the hold command, initially working
on the command "Hold" for only for one or two seconds. Again, the command
"Hold" and "Give" must also predict positive reinforcement.
Some dogs won't "Take" a tennis ball, others will not "Give" it back.
Therefore, use a wood dowel, or some other article that the dog will be willing
to take, hold and give with out a fight.
Play Running. Play run with your dog with and without jumps.
Grooming. Grooming is not only important for the dog's health
and well-being, but important in establishing a bond as well.
Hide and Seek. Have a family member restrain your dog while
you go into another room. Call your dog and praise it when it finds you.
Again, this establishes a bond and a comfort zone.
Name Attention. Have your dog on a short leash or standing
next to you. Each time it is distracted and looks away, call its
name. The dog will look at you. When it does, reinforce its
response with a piece of food.
Conditioned Reinforcement. The word "Ready" should signal
to your dog reinforcement. "Ready" should predict reinforcement. As with the
name attention exercise above, have your dog on a short leash or standing next
to you. Each time it is distracted and looks away, call out "Ready."
The dog will look at you. When it does, reinforce its response
with a piece of food. The word "Ready" will be paired with a treat until the
word "Ready" becomes a conditioned reinforcer.
"On Your Mark" should signal to your dog that it is going to be released
to chase or retrieve an article. Initially, restrain your dog, give the
command "On Your Mark...Get Set" and release your dog on the command "Go" to
chase a ball, another member of the family or perhaps to retrieve a water
dummy. I often will restrain my dog physically or on a sit stay, toss a water
dummy off shore, give the signal "On Your Mark ...Get Set" and release the dog
on the command "Go." Just as the dog reaches the dummy I signal the dog
"Ready" to strengthen the ability of the signal "Ready" to reinforce the dog.
A Whistle or the sound of a box being loaded can be substituted for the signal
go, thus establishing each as a conditioned reinforcement.
The command "Leave It" and "No" must predict negative reinforcement before
using the command in a training situation. Initially, with no distractions and
your dog sitting at your side, pair the command "No" and later, "Leave It" with
a collar correction. After one or two sessions, the commands "Leave It" and
"No" will predict negative reinforcement and can then be used in training
situations to give the dog a correction, one that the dog cannot avoid. The
dog will likely never need another collar correction, other than on occasion
to remind the dog that "No" and "Leave It" do indeed predict negative
reinforcement.
Circle Right. Using the signal "Ready...Ready ...Ready,"
circle right. This is the beginning of establishing a quick turn.
Hand and Feet Games. Hand and feet games are important to
establish that they are not something to be afraid of. Playfully pushing your
dog away and then enticing it to come back with a piece of food will
teach the dog the comfort zone is next to the handler. The same can be done
with your feet, playfully pushing the dog away and enticing it to
return with a piece of food.
Target Training. Similar to the "hand shake" encourage your
dog to push your hand and reinforce the behavior with a piece of food. Later,
we will transfer the target (our hand) to the Flyball box pedal.
Catch. Either toss the ball or hand the dog the ball pairing
the command "Catch" with the exercise.
Crate Training. It must be stressed that a dog crate is not
intended for long-hour durations for the convenience of an absent owner. If
correctly used, a crate can have many advantages for both you and your dog.
With a crate, among many other benefits, you can enjoy complete peace of mind
when leaving your dog alone at a tournament to enjoy the privacy and security
of a den. You can effectively confine your dog when it is over excited or bothered
by too much confusion, knowing that your dog will be comfortable and safe. You
can travel with your dog without the risk of the driver being dangerously
distracted or the dog getting loose and hopelessly lost. Finally, the dog can
easily adapt to the strange surroundings of a motel or a tournament site as
long as the dog can retreat to a familiar secure den.
The crate must be large enough to permit the dog to stretch out. The most
practical dog crate is the wire mesh type, available in a wide variety of
sizes. Light-weight and easily handled, it allows total ventilation and
permits the dog to look around or the crate can be easily covered for privacy.
A young puppy should have no problem accepting a crate as its own. Whether for
a puppy or an older dog, initially place the crate in an area where there are
people. For bedding, use an old towel or a piece of blanket that can be washed,
and a freshly worn unlaundered article of your clothing such as a tee shirt,
an old shirt or sweater (this will help in the bonding and make the dog feel
more at home).
Establish a crate routine, closing the puppy in at regular 1 to 2 hour
intervals during the day (normal nap times are a good opportunity to establish
a routine). Be sure to remove any collars and tags which could get caught in
an opening and strangle the dog or puppy. A dog may be crated all night, but,
it is unlikely that a puppy will make it through the night without relieving in
the crate. Until housebroken, puppies should be taken out during the night at
least once.
If you are crating an adult dog for the first time, the crate must be introduced
gradually, with every possible effort made to be sure that the dog's first
association with it is pleasant. Place the crate in a location where the dog
will feel part of the family, encourage the dog to investigate the crate,
luring it in with treats - praising it enthusiastically. When it begins to
enter the crate confidently, place its bedding and something of yours or a
towel you have slept with inside and coax your dog to lie down and relax.
Continue this pattern for several days - shutting the door only briefly while
you sit beside the crate. As soon as you feel confident that the dog will
remain quietly, you may safely leave it alone for extended periods of time -
perhaps 1/2 to 1 hour.
Play Retrieve. One of the first steps is to test and develop
the young dog's instincts to chase and retrieve. Find a long hallway (with
all the doors closed), an ideal spot to work on retrieving since there are no
distractions and nowhere to go. The object need not be a ball. Crumpled
paper, a work glove, a squeaky toy or an old sock may be easier for a puppy to
pick up. Later add a command such as "Take It."
Praise the young dog while it actually has the object in its mouth and don't
be in a hurry to take it from the young dog. Allow the dog possession time.
The dog deserves and needs a little time to play with the ball. After
sufficient praise, distract it with a bit of food or even another ball. When
the dog drops the ball, go back to training your dog.
Chase. Another aspect of Flyball is to get the dog to return
to the handler as quickly as possible. When getting the ball is the primary
motivation, the dog has no motivation to return to the handler. The primary
motivation for Flyball should always be to quickly return to the handler. The
ball should only be a secondary motivation or reinforcement. Running in the
opposite direction takes advantage of the dog's natural instincts to chase. It
doesn't matter that the dog drops the ball. Restrained recalls are another
technique that takes advantage of the dog's natural instincts to chase.
Play games where the dog chases you. Reinforce your dog for chasing you with a
game of tug of war. Let your dog win. Hide and seek can also be a great way
to reinforce the bond between you and your dog.
Jump. Start with regulation Flyball jumps or the regulation
obedience broad jumps. McCann vs. McCann Flyball team set more NAFA records
from 1980 through 1990 than all the other teams combined. They prefer to use a
long board, eight (8) inches in width, with one side elevated slightly.
Regulation obedience broad jumps are ideally suited. Being wider than the
Flyball jumps they discourage the dog from running around the jump. Also,
having no uprights, the broad jumps tend to be less threatening.
One person restrains the dog directly in front of the jump, while the handler,
on the other side entices the dog to jump pairing the command "Jump" with the
reinforcement and the behavior. Once the dog is jumping readily, a second jump
may be added, a third and finally a forth jump can be added. Since the dog is
doing a straight line recall, there is less chance that the dog will cut the
jumps than if the dog were on lead with the handler running along side. The
dogs are also more self-reliant when not led over the jumps. Initially keep
the jumps low. Flyball is not a high-jumping contest.
Push/Catch. Earlier we taught the dog to "Push" (hand shake)
by enticing your dog to push your hand and reinforcing the behavior with a
piece of food. Now, instead of food, play a game of catch combining the
command "Push" with the command "Catch." Later, we will transfer the target
(our hand) to the Flyball box pedal.
Sit and Release. The command "Sit" should predict positive
reinforcement. Using treats as a target, elicit a response to the command
"Sit" and reinforce the desired response. The command "Sit" and the
reinforcement is paired with the response. Once the dog is responding, the
treat is out of sight and is no longer used as a target to elicit a response, but
rather simply to reinforce the response initiated by the dog on the command
"Sit". Initially you only reinforce the dog's best efforts. Introduce a
variable schedule of reinforcement once the behavior has been established. In
the early stages be sure to release the dog after only a few moments of
sitting.
A common error is to release the dog then give the dog the reinforcement.
Thus, the dog is being reinforced for breaking a sit command.
Turn and Chase. With your dog facing you, either sitting or
standing, give the command "Ready" and throw the ball in the opposite
direction. This exercise is to introduce the quick turn.
Stay Command. Basic obedience is a prerequisite for Flyball.
Once competing the dog will be off lead. The handler must be able to control
his dog with verbal communication only. The dog must come when called, be
steady in the midst of distractions and stay when told. Again with any new
exercise start off by teaching the dog that the command "Stay" predicts a
positive reinforcement. With the dog in the sit position, give the command
"Stay" placing your hand in front of the dog's face. The lead should be on
the dead ring, with slight tension upward. Reinforce the dog for staying if
only for one or two seconds. Gradually increase the time, using the command
"Stay" as a conditioned reinforcer. After the exercise give the dog the
primary reinforcement. Here the command "Stay" is a conditioned reinforcer
and bridge, until such time that the handler can reinforce the behavior with a
primary reinforcement.
Gradually, work farther and farther from your dog, returning to your dog from
time to time giving the command "Stay" paired with a piece of food. This will
reinforce the conditioned reinforcer "Stay" with a primary reinforcer. If the
dog breaks, give a verbal correction, "eh-eh" or "No" and start over.
Down and Release. From the sitting position use food as a
target to guide your dog into the down position. Placing your free hand on his
back and applying slight pressure. Again be sure to release your dog after
only few moments.
Stand and Release. Again, from the sitting position use food
as a target to guide your dog into the stand position, placing your free hand
under its stomach. Again be sure to release your dog after a only few moments.
Retrieve. Begin to work with a long line and the retrieve.
Later, once the dog has retrieved the ball, introduce a correction for the
quick turn. For now, the long line is only used to guide the dog back to the
handler.
Long line recalls. First, your dog should become accustomed
to a long line. With a long line on, start with a simple recall or even a
restrained recall.
Later, to establish reliable responses to the command come, we introduce an
escape response (correction) for a slow response. Of course, if the dog fails
to respond or if all the responses are slow we would work on restrained
recalls or perhaps a game of hide and seek until we have the desired response.
Corrections designed to teach the dog an avoidance response should not be used
to establish a response. With the introduction of an escape response, the dog
learns an avoidance response. Again avoidance responses (where the dog learns
to avoid the behavior that predicts negative reinforcement by responding
quickly) are reinforced. Escape responses are not reinforced, but always
followed immediately with another command that gives the dog an opportunity to
avoid the behavior that predicts negative reinforcement.
Directed Jumping. With your dog off to one side, guide it
over the jump. Initially the dog is set off to one side and the handler is
near the jump. Gradually the dog is set off farther and farther away from the
jump and more and more to one side. Finally, the handler begins to move
farther and farther away from the jump and more and more off to the side.
About Turn. Very similar to the circle right, the about turn
will help establish a quick turn. Using "Ready...Ready...Ready..." as a
conditioned reinforcement and food as a primary reinforcement, circle right.
Keep the food low and the circles tight.
Trigger the box. The dog should be introduced to the box
gradually. Leave the box around the house where the dog will become
accustomed to it. Put treats on the box or let the dog retrieve a few balls
that roll near the box.
Take the dog up to an unloaded box. The idea is to entice the dog to approach
the box and have a pleasant experience. Once the dog has learned to target
yourhand with its paw for a treat, we transfer the target from the hand to
the pedal by merely placing our hand on the pedal with the palm facing up. We
can either give the dog a treat for targeting our hand (thus the pedal) or
toss the dog a ball, combining the "push......catch" command we learned
earlier. Later, with the dog on a short lead the handler restrains the dog
while the loader targets the box with his hand. Initially, do not load the
box. Focus on getting the dog to press the pedal and catch a ball tossed by
the box loader. With some boxes the box loader can set the ball in the cup
without loading the box. Finally, the box loader can load the box.
Most dogs learn to press the pedal without use of a target. However, those
dogs may have problems learning to use a new box. Also, dogs that have been
taught to run up to the box and slam into the box will have problems turning
until they learn to press the pedal.
To encourage the dog to trigger the box have one person restrain the dog a
short distance from the box. The ball is then tossed to the box loader, who
catches the ball and immediately loads the box. Tossing the ball to the box
loader heightens the dog's excitement. Once the dog is reliable on the box
the handler should gradually back the dog away farther and farther from the
box. Once the dog catches the ball reliably, the handler turns and takes off
running in the opposite direction, enticing the dog in a game of chase.
Again, don't be concerned if the dog initially drops the ball.
Eventually combine the "turn and chase" with the box. As the dog triggers the
box and catches the ball, the box loader will give the command "Ready" and
throw another ball in the opposite direction.
Stand for Exam. Once your dog is confident with the stand
and stay command, add a distraction by having the judge examine and measure
your dog. Initially, have the judge just pass his hand over the dog.
Retrieve. After you have worked for some time with a long
line and the retrieve, introduce a correction for the quick turn. Initially,
with the dog on a short lead (6 foot lead) pair the command Come with a
correction as you back up and call your dog. If the dog responds as it
should, the dog will not get a correction. The handler should be quick to
reinforce the dog for the proper response; otherwise, correct the dog. After
the dog has learned to avoid the behavior that causes the correction, namely
responding quickly to the command "Come," toss a ball a few feet from the dog
and have the dog retrieve the ball or "Take It." Once the dog has the ball
give the command to "Come." Again, if the dog responds with a quick turn, the
dog will not get a correction; rather, the handler should be quick to
reinforce the dog. Once both the handler and dog are confident on a 6 foot
lead, try it with a long line.
This exercise is to be taught independent of Flyball. The dog is to associate
any correction with a slow turn, not the box, or the ball. Furthermore, by
teaching the exercise independent of Flyball, a problem with quick turns in a
tournament can be corrected before going into the ring without having a box
and a set of jumps.
Quick turns. Quick turns don't just happen, they must be
shaped. Long line recalls (with a correction) are important in teaching quick
turns, as are turn and chase, back up and call your dog, quarter turns, about
turns and circle right. Once satisfied with straight recalls we can further
shape the desired response - a quick turn. Turn the dog a quarter turn,
leave your dog and go about 30 or 40 feet away. Call your dog. Each time you
call your dog, turn your dog in small increments until the dog's back is
facing you.
Satisfied that the dog is responding correctly with a quick turn, we introduce
the correction. If the dog fails to respond with a quick turn, correct the
dog. The dog's natural response will be to escape the correction. If the
dog's response is to avoid the behavior that predicts negative reinforcement,
the avoidance response is reinforced with a game of chase, or even a piece of
food.
Up to this point the cue for a quick turn is the command "Come." The final
stage of shaping quick turns is to teach the dog a new cue for the quick turn,
namely the ball. This is done by introducing a long line retrieve. Once the
dog has retrieved the ball (the new cue for a quick turn) we give the command
to "Come." The dog, to avoid a correction and to be reinforced for a quick
turn, will turn quickly. In time the command "Come" can be dropped and the
ball becomes the cue for a quick turn. Again, when introducing escape
responses the trainer must maintain an emotional balance between the desire to
avoid certain behavior and the desire to be reinforced. It is a delicate
balance and sometimes difficult to achieve.
Timing is critical. Before the correction is given, the dog
must have time to process the command "Come" and avoid the behavior that to
predicts a negative reinforcement; namely, anything but a quick turn.
Return Run. The return run is simply a restrained recall
where the dog races over four jumps and chases the handler or in some cases a
ball if the handler is unable to run away from the dog. The exercise is
taught using backward chaining as discussed in Chapter 9.
Again, the jumps need not be regulation Flyball jumps. Some trainers
prefer regulation obedience broad jumps. They are excellent for the learning
stages, and easier to set up, move around and store.
Outrun. The outrun is a game of chase with jumps. The dog
merely chases a ball thrown by the handler. Use a tennis racket, if you can
not throw a tennis ball a good distance accurately. Once the dog has been
released the handler should go to the dog. Do not insist on a retrieve, as we
can only shape one thing at a time.
Combine the Outrun and Return Run. Later, by combining the
outrun and return run we have a retrieve with jumps but no box.
Racing side by side. Do the return run or the outrun with
two dogs racing side by side.
Passing. Passing is discussed in
Chapter 9.
Added Distractions. Ideally, the dog should not be
introduced to distractions in the learning stages. This is not always
practical or even possible. However, until the dog has learned the behavior
it is not fair to correct the dog. Further, unless absolutely necessary don't
put your dog in a situation where distractions are likely. Again, before you
introduce distractions the command "Leave It" and "No" must predict negative
reinforcement.
Ultimately, using a distraction to proof the dog is a good idea, but not until
the dog has learned the exercise. Using distractions to teach the exercise is
a bad idea.
In competition there will be times when another dog may drop a ball or your
dog may have to retrieve a missed ball. In Flyball anything can happen and
often does. In Louisville a few years back, I remember a dog coming over to
our box during a race. Our third dog, Trey, had to jump over the dog to get
to the pedal (and did). On the return run Trey again jumped over the dog.
On another run, our fourth dog, Wendy, managed to drag another dog over four
jumps with the dog's teeth firmly planted in Wendy's hind quarters. Certainly
that was unusual, and similar distractions to proof the dog are not necessary.
However, some distractions that the dog should be introduced to include loose
tennis balls, racing side by side, switching lanes, dogs and handlers crossing
the lanes (as judges and loose dogs sometimes do), barking dogs, knocked down
jumps and crowd noise. Hopefully, the dog will be somewhat accustomed to
these distractions as a part of interacting with other dogs, their training,
socializing and preparation for new or unfamiliar environments (see new tank
syndrome, Chapter 1).
Building the Behavior Chain. Chaining is discussed in the
next Chapter.
In a behavior chain each link in the behavior serves as a cue for the next
response. For example, the cue for the dog to go over the first jump is the
release, the cue for the dog to go over the next jump is the preceding jump,
the cue for the ball is the box, the cue for the quick turn is the ball, the
quick turn is the cue for the return run with each jump serving as the cue for
the next jump and so on.
Before proceeding to making any decisions about the order in which each link
is to be taught, each link in the behavior chain must be identified. With a
knowledge of favorable behavior and the sport of Flyball each link has been
identified in Table 8-1.
A behavior chain can be learned by a process known as forward chaining or by a
process referred to as backward chaining. Forward chaining is the process by
which the dog learns the first link in the behavior chain first, followed by
the second link, then the third and so on.
To illustrate forward chaining, consider the outrun, illustrated in Figure 8-1. In
forward chaining you start with the first jump, add a second, then a third
and finally the forth jump is added to the behavior chain.
While forward chaining may be an excellent technique to condition a dog's
response for short behavior chains, Flyball, being a complex behavior chain, is
better taught using backward chaining. That is, we teach the last link first,
followed by the next to last link, and so on until the entire chain is learned.
Again, consider the outrun, this time using backward chaining to teach the dog,
as illustrated in Figure 8-2.
Although backward chaining and forward chaining appear similar, that backward
chaining is preferred is not so obvious. However, when backward chaining is
applied you set the dog up to succeed. Second, since Flyball is a sequence of
responses where each response creates the stimulus for the next response then
each new behavior or link serves as a cue for the next response. Third, while
the first part of the exercise is perhaps initially somewhat unfamiliar to the
dog as each new link is added - as the dog responds to each new cue - the links
at the end are familiar. The dog knows where the training is going. Thus,
the motivation is there to complete the chain. Furthermore, the dog always
ends on a positive note. By the time five or six new links have been added the
dog has repeated the last link an equal number of times. Indeed, each time a
new link is added the links at the end are reinforced. Finally, dogs that have
been trained using backward chaining are self-reliant when faced with a
decision in an unfamiliar situation. The dogs are accustomed to discovering on
their own the steps or links that lead to reinforcement, rather than being led.
In Flyball competition there are any number of events that can put a dog in an
unfamiliar situation - a knocked down jump, a loose ball, a box loader forgets
to load the box, a missed ball rolls into the crowd, a camera flash, a box
malfunctions and so on. Where backward chaining has been used to train the dog,
the dog will look for a familiar cue - one that will lead to reinforcement.
The rules for teaching chain behavior are threefold. First, in any chain,
whether it is a simple, straight chain or a complex chain that calls for
decisions, teach the last behaviors first.
Second, carry the chain through to the end each time. Never interrupt the
chain in the middle. The phenomenon of getting stuck in the middle is the
result of having the chain interrupted at that point in the training. It does
no harm to start in the middle, but it does do harm to stop in the middle. If
the dog learns to go over one or two jumps and is stopped, the dog learns to
break or interrupt the behavior chain at that point. Furthermore, the process
of backward chaining makes it possible to carry an exercise to the end each
time, even in the earliest stages of training. The first stage of Flyball is
to start at the end; namely, a straight recall. The last stage of Flyball is
taking Flyball from the beginning to the end. Dog trainers that have not been
exposed to the principles of backward chaining begin their training where they
should be ending, namely, taking the dog through the entire exercise from
beginning to end.
Third, teach each behavior the dog will encounter in Flyball before it is
needed to build the chain. Before you begin to build the chain the dog should
know the outrun, how to trigger the box and catch the ball, how to retrieve,
the quick turn, the directed jump, the return run and all the cues. Then and
only then, should you build the behavior chain. Otherwise, you will get stuck,
you will interrupt the behavior chain, and you will take away the motivation
for the dog. The dog will not be self-reliant; rather, when your dog gets
stuck you will have to lead the dog through the exercise.
Through the behavior shaping exercises the dog has learned all the cues for
each response. The dog has learned the cue to slow down is the box, the cue
for the next jump is the preceding jump, the cue for a quick turn is the ball,
the cue for the return run is the quick turn, and so on.
The first step as we build the behavior chain is the return run. We start over
again at the beginning with a restrained recall and one jump, then two jumps,
three and finally four jumps. Next with the four jumps between the handler and
the dog, the dog is placed with its back to us and the quick turn is
added. Next add the retrieve. Then with the four jumps between the handler
and dog, the dog is placed facing the box. The behavior chain now includes the
box, the retrieve, the quick turn and the return run. Although, we are
starting in the middle of the behavior chain the chain is taken to the end each
time.
The final step is to add the outrun, again one jump at a time. The dog is
placed facing the box with one jump between the dog and the box. The dog is
released - going over one jump to the box, triggers the box, retrieves the
ball, turns quickly and returns over all four jumps to the handler. We add
the outrun one jump at a time, until the dog completes the behavior chain from
beginning to end. Table 8-2 list the order in which each link is added. If at
any point the dog is having trouble the handler should stop and review the
training process.
If the dog has learned the outrun, how to trigger the box and catch the ball,
how to retrieve, the quick turn, the directed jump, the return run and all the
cues, then building the chain for the first time should take about 10 minutes.
The process of building the chain is repeated during each training session for
several weeks. Passing will be taught separately and introduced to the
behavior chain once the dogs are consistent on the outrun and return run.
Next, work with two dogs, as illustrated in Figure 9-3. Initially, the second
dog is not released until the first dog has returned to the handler.
Gradually, the second dog is released earlier each time until the dogs are
passing at the start/finish line. Alternate which dog goes first, otherwise,
one dog will always be running into a dog being released and the other will
always be running into a dog that is coming over the last jump. Also, the
helper and handler should alternate, working on both the return run and the
outrun. In the return run the dog normally chases the handler. In the outrun
the dog normally chases a ball. However, some handlers have found it difficult
to run and may use a ball for the return run, taking full advantage of the
dog'snatural instincts to chase.
If we have enough help we can also work with four dogs, as illustrated in
Figure 9-4. When working with four dogs, dog one is released followed by dog
2, dog 3, and finally, dog 4.
It's essential to continue to work with each dog individually on directed
jumping, the outrun and the return run. Otherwise, the dogs may lose some of
their intensity and drive. Also, when you first introduce passing you will
need to relax your standards somewhat. Initially, the dogs will not single
step and drive as hard. Therefore, you may want to move the jumps in slightly.
Regardless, always lower the jumps when introducing something new.
Once the dogs are passing at or near the start/finish line we can further shape
the desired behavior by gradually moving the dogs closer to the center of the
mats as illustrated in Figure 9-5.
When passing, release the next dog when the returning dog is at the next to
last jump - both dogs will be approximately sixteen (16) feet from the
start/finish line. This distance will vary slightly depending on the relative
speed of the dog returning and of the dog being released. Timing and video
taping each dog will help set the proper distance for each combination of dogs.
The distance also may vary slightly from tournament to tournament depending on
the running surface and the size of the ring.
Since it is virtually impossible to release the dog when the handler "sees" the
returning dog reach the next to last jump, the handler times the release with
each jump, using "On Your Mark" as the dog reaches the first jump, "Get Set" as
the dog reaches the second jump, and releases the dog on "Go." This greatly
helps the handler's timing. For those that have difficulty timing their
release, a helper will actually coach the handler - giving the signal "On Your
Mark....Get Set....Go."
Getting ready for competition will be discussed in Chapter 11. Next, we will
discuss a typical practice.
Start off with some warm up exercises, whether random jumping with three or
four jumps, or some agility exercises. This will minimize the chance of
injury. To keep the dog alert, set the jumps at different heights and vary the
distance between jumps.
Return runs (restrained recalls over the jumps) and outruns (handler restrains
the dog and then throws the a ball the length of the run before releasing the
dog) are almost always a part of our routine. Occasionally, we will combine
the outrun and return run (without a box). A helper will lay a ball at the end
of the jumps for the dog to retrieve. With the more experienced dogs we will
set up two runs for the outrun and return run, working two dogs simultaneously,
side by side. Or we might work on passing with two dogs on the same lane.
Meanwhile, in another room, others will be working with the box or quick turns
and behavior shaping exercises.
Behavior shaping exercise such as heel starts, the finish, heeling, jumping,
random downs or sits, about turn, back and call your dog, and other quick turn
exercises can be going on while one or more dogs are working on the jumps and
box.
To work on speed alone we will use broad jumps rather than the Flyball jumps.
Using broad jumps is a nice change for the dogs.
If we have time at the end of practice we will run the dogs a few times putting
the entire exercise together, noting which dogs pass well together, which most
consistently run under 6 seconds and which dogs are the fastest. Table 10-1 is
used to record each dog's time, the order each dog runs and any mistakes the
dog or handler might make. Table 10-2 is used to evaluate each dog's
performance as well as the team's performance. We also try to video tape and
have one person observe the starts, passing and box work. From the times
recorded I determine how likely it is that the dog will run under 6 seconds, in
other words, how consistently the dog runs under 6 seconds. This is a simple
percentage of the number or runs under 6 seconds to the total number or runs.
For example, if a dog has 10 runs and nine are under 6 second, the likelihood
that the dog will run under 6 seconds is 90% (or 9 divided by 10). The dogs
are then ranked accordingly. Also, the dogs are ranked according to speed
(normally the dog's average time of all races under 6.0 seconds).
Normally, the dogs most consistently under 6 seconds will race against the
slower teams. The fastest dogs will compete against the faster teams. I like
to run dogs with the least experience last - thus giving them a clear run back.
I prefer to race the best dog first - hoping to take an early lead.
I have also observed that the dogs and handlers develop a certain rhythm as
they race. Therefore, unless absolutely necessary, I will stay with the same
four dogs in any given set of races. I might even stay with a slower dog in
the third and final heat rather than introduce a new dog that might upset the
rhythm the first dogs established in heats 1 and 2.
Table 10-1 (see Chapter 10) is used to record each dog's time, the order each
dog runs and any mistakes the dog or handler might make. Table 10-2 (see
Chapter 10) is used as a work sheet to evaluate each dog's performance as well
as the teams performance. From the times recorded I determine how likely it is
that the dog will run under 6 seconds; in other words, how consistently the dog
runs under 6 seconds. The dogs are ranked accordingly. The dogs are also
ranked according to speed (normally the dog's average time for those runs under
6.0 seconds). In this manner I can determine statistically which dogs are the
most consistent and which dogs are the fastest. Ideally, you want the four
fastest dogs and the four most consistent. Of course, you are only allowed six
dogs, but more often than not two or more of the fastest dogs will also be your
more consistent dogs as well.
Before the competition, start off with some warm up exercises. This will
minimize the chance of injury and keep the dog alert. Usually, there will be
a flight of stairs at the show site that can be used to warm up the dogs.
Statistically, most injuries occur when the dogs are doing their warm up races.
This is normally after the dogs have been confined to a crate for an extended
period of time. Behavior shaping exercise such as heel starts, the finish,
heeling, jumping, random downs or sits, about turn, back and call your dog, and
other quick turn exercises can be going on while waiting to go into the ring.
When you arrive at the tournament site, take the dog in the ring before the
competition starts. You are not allowed to practice in the ring but and let
your dog get familiar with the ring and accustomed to the new surroundings.
If possible, introduce dogs new to Flyball competition using backward chaining.
During the competition you will normally be allowed two practice runs. In the
first warm up do a restrained recall over the jumps. Perhaps adding a quick
turn to the second practice run. During the second warm up, just prior to the
second set of races, add a retrieve to the return run. On the second practice
run, add one jump, a retrieve and the return run. By the third warm up, you
might add the box, and perhaps the outrun on the second practice run. By the
third or fourth set of races the dog will be ready to compete with confidence.
When passing, release the next dog when the returning dog is at the next to
last jump approximately sixteen (16) feet from the start/finish line. This
distance will vary slightly depending on the relative speed of the dog
returning and of the dog being released. Timing and video taping each dog will
help set the proper distance for each combination of dogs. The distance also
may vary slightly from tournament to tournament depending on the running
surface and the size of the ring. Normally, we will be conservative in the
first few heats, making certain our passes are well behind the line. As the
tournament progresses our line coach will advise us on our passing.
Since it is virtually impossible to release the dog when the handler "sees"
that the returning dog has reached the next to last jump, the handler times the
release with each jump, using "On Your Mark" as the dog reaches the first jump,
"Get Set" as the dog reaches the second jump, and releases the dog on "Go."
This helps the handler's timing. For those that have difficulty timing their
release, a helper will actually coach the handler - giving the signal "On Your
Mark....Get Set....Go."
Finally, it should be noted that some dogs perform better in tournaments
while others perform better at practice. Therefore, we will time and observe
the dogs in competition as well as at practice, using Tables 10-1 and 10-2 to
record the information, plan our training and to determine which dogs should
compete under what conditions.
John Holmes, stated in his book, "The Farmer's Dog":
Knowing how your dog works and being able to relate that to Flyball will make
you a clever trainer. You can see something going wrong and put it right
before the damage is done. The first step to putting anything right is usually
to find out why it went wrong. Evaluating your dog's performance is twofold.
First, when should you raise the criteria and second, what behaviors should you
work on if you are having a problem?
First, keep a log book of what you have worked on and when, record times,
training goals, mistakes and any observations made. Second, raise the
criteria only if the behavior is under stimulus control; that is, the dog is
not just simulating a behavior, but the dog will execute the behavior when
the command or cue is given without help. Further, it is essential that the
behavior is being reinforced on a variable schedule before using selective
reinforcement to raise the criteria.
If you are having a problem, Diagram 7-1 offers an insight to the training
process and will identify those behaviors that will need to be established
before you can realistically expect to proceed to the next step in the training
process. If you are having difficulty at one or more aspects of Flyball,
Diagram 7-1 will identify where you have gone wrong; thus, you can make things
right before any damage is done. Perhaps you have taken part of the exercise
for granted or overlooked one or more exercises. With the problems identified,
sit down and plan a program to shape the dog's behavior in the desired
direction.
A good golfer won't try to correct his swing on the course, but rather, will go
to the driving range to correct any bad habits. Similarly, training the dog
with corrections during a race is not effective for two reasons. First, the
dog's state of mind - corrections will only excite the dog. Second, the
correction will not be paired with the unfavorable behavior. In Flyball the
dog goes from one behavior to the next, often performing as many as 15 to 20
different behaviors in less than 6 or 7 seconds. No one can time a correction
such that the dog can process the information and then associate the correction
with the behavior you wish to change. It cannot be done, unless the correction
is first associated with the behavior independent of all other ongoing
behaviors. If, for instance, a correction has been paired with a behavior
independent of other behaviors, the correction can effectively change the
behavior. Therefore, work independently on unfavorable behavior paired with a
correction. As mentioned previously, the command "Leave It" should predict a
negative reinforcement before ever using it in a "real" situation. Similarly,
the correction for the slow turn is taught independent of the exercise.
If the behavior is not being shaped in a reasonable length of time, review your
shaping process and reinforcement to ensure you are not violating one or more
of the essential principles discussed in Chapter 6. If not, review the path
you have selected to shape the desired behavior. The shaping process can take
many directions; there are probably as many ways to shape a given behavior as
there are trainers to train it.
Do not interrupt your training sessions. It is important in the learning
process that successive approximations are successive. Each time a training
session is interrupted you lose momentum.
There are any number of things that can cause learned behavior to break down.
By progressing through each successive step used to shape a given behavior you
can again establish previously learned behavior. If a problem develops in a
tournament or even in practice, progressing through each successive step will
also help to identify the problem and the solution, often in a matter of
minutes, even between heats.
Do not shape two behaviors simultaneously. It is not always easy to
distinguish between two simultaneous behaviors and a single behavior. To avoid
this pitfall, determine ahead of time what particular behavior it is that you
want to shape. If it is quick turns, work on quick turns, not catching the
ball. Further, when you are shaping unlearned behavior the dog needs time to
process the information. Working on two behaviors simultaneously is asking the
dog to process too much information. Either one behavior will over shadow the
other or the dog will become confused and either quit or make mistakes
desperately trying to please the trainer.
Many trainers make the mistake of assuming one behavior has been learned when
in reality the behavior has only been simulated. You can easily be led into
believing the dog has learned a certain behavior because it has learned to
simulate the behavior. Only if the behavior is on a schedule of variable
reinforcement can you be certain the behavior is indeed learned and under
stimulus control. Raising the criteria before the dog has learned the
behavior will only confuse it. Sooner or later the behavior will break
down, even if the dog has learned to simulate what you want. In the early
stages of development even learned behavior will break down for no apparent
reason. This can be discouraging to the novice trainer. However, experienced
trainers have learned to recognize the phenomenon as natural and are actually
encouraged by the phenomenon. It is at this point in the training that the dog
is suddenly faced with a number of new behaviors. For several weeks the dog
may appear to actually have forgotten everything. In a short time it all comes
back and the dog will be ready to learn more.
When our team gets together we allow the dogs time to play together and
interact (supervised play and interaction) This is more than just socializing.
The dogs are a team. Some behaviorists might even consider their interaction
much like pack interaction.
Much of dog training is based on known pack behavior. In the wild, the pack
works as a team in hunting and defending the pack's territory. To function
well the pack must exist with a minimum of conflict. Struggles within the pack
are kept to a minimum by the natural tendencies to be either a leader or a
follower, to dominate or submit. Dr. Michael W. Fox, in his book
"Understanding Your Dog," points out that dogs have a "natural tendency to
assert their dominance....Pack aggression is reduced to ritual displays of
domination and subordination...Play contributes to the establishment of social
interaction based on dominance and subordination... The result is the control
of aggression within the pack (team)."
A more formal command "Take, Hold and Give" might be necessary. The command
"Take" must predict positive reinforcement. Initially, it should be paired
with a treat. Next, you should have your dog "Give" the article to you and
later "Hold" the article. Again, the command "Hold" and "Give" must also
predict positive reinforcement. Some dogs won't "Take" a tennis ball, others
will not "Give" it back. Therefore, use a wood dowel, or some other article
that the dog will be willing to take, hold and give without a fight.
The handler could also teach the dog the Flyball exercises using an old sock or
some other toy. Once the dog finds out how much fun Flyball is, the handler
can occasionally substitute a ball. We have an Australian Shepherd on our team
that would only retrieve her tennis balls - if another dog would take her ball
it had to be washed. Occasionally quite by accident I forget to load her ball
in the box. However, she now accepts an occasional mix up on my part.
Inexperienced or misinformed trainers may recommend the force retrieve. Forced
retrieves should not be used to teach the dog the command "Take." Forced
retrieves are useful only in establishing an escape and an avoidance response;
in other words, the dog is already a reliable retriever.
Still another technique that has been successful to a degree is to soak the
ball in chicken grease or liver juice, again with the idea of eventually
eliminating the need to use flavored tennis balls by reducing the flavor each
week until the flavor is nearly gone. Again, this is a technique I hesitate to
use - keeping liver soaked tennis balls in my refrigerator is not very
appealing. In addition, it makes for an unpleasant experience for the box
loaders. Sometimes it's easier to find good dogs than good box loaders.
One final thought--perhaps the regulation tennis ball is too large for your dog.
Subject to the size and comfort of the dog, smaller balls may be substituted,
provided they are approved by the Judge or North American Flyball Association
prior to competition.
Some handlers make the mistake of correcting the dog for not catching the ball
during a race, thus interrupting the behavior chain. Again, any behavior
should be established independent of teaching other behaviors.
Also, it will be difficult to get a fast return if the ball has become the only
reinforcement for the exercise. The primary reinforcement for Flyball should
be returning to the handler. The dogs are always and immediately reinforced
at the box with a ball. If they are never reinforced at the end of the
exercise they will slow down on the return run. Work on the restrained outrun
and return runs without the box. Only occasionally should you combine the
exercises. Indeed, if you never combined the exercises, the dog would still
know what to do in actual competition.
Use broad jumps in lieu of Flyball jumps when teaching the dog to drive over
the jumps. As the dog is coming over the last jump, turn and run in the
opposite direction, taking full advantage of the dog's natural instincts and
desire to chase.
If your dog misses the first or last jump make certain it is not because the
dog did not catch the ball or is not confident about passing other dogs. Your
problem may not be with the jumps.
Further, the command "Leave It" must predict negative reinforcement independent
of chasing other dogs or a loose tennis ball. If your dog continues to chase
other dogs, correct it with the command "Leave It." Again, just as with "No,"
the command "Leave It" must predict negative reinforcement. If "Leave It" has
been taught properly it will predict a correction; indeed, as far as the dog is
concerned it is a correction. Again, the command "Leave It" need not be harsh.
It is a simple means to communicate to the dog that it is wrong.
Immediately give your dog an opportunity to try again.
Take the dog up to an unloaded box. The idea is to entice the dog to approach
the box and have a pleasant experience. Once the dog has learned to target
your hand with its paw for a treat, we transfer the target from the hand
to the pedal by merely placing our hand on the pedal with the palm facing up.
We can either give the dog a treat for targeting our hand (thus the pedal) or
toss the dog a ball, combining the "Push/Catch" command we learned earlier.
Later, with the dog on a short lead the handler restrains the dog while the
loader targets the box with his hand. Initially, I would not recommend loading
the box but focus on getting the dog to press the pedal and catch a ball tossed
by the loader. Later, the box loader can set the ball in the cup without
loading the box. Finally, the box loader can load the box.
Again, to establish an incompatible behavior, namely a quick turn, teach your
dog to turn and chase a ball. With your dog facing you, either sitting or
standing, give the command "Ready" and throw the ball in the opposite
direction. This exercise is to introduce the quick turn. Eventually combine
the "turn and chase" with the box. As the dog catches the ball, give the
command "Ready" and throw another ball in the opposite direction. Circle right,
about turn and long line recalls are also helpful in establishing a quick turn.
Furthermore, don't be in a hurry to combine quick turns and the jumps with the
Flyball box. Remember, work on one behavior at any one time. Later, once the
dog is catching the ball consistently (25 or 30 times without a miss) we can
add the box, even jumps or quick turns.
The first Flyball competition was organized in the late 1970s and early 1980s.
Following a tournament held in Toronto, Ontario, in November, 1984, the North
American Flyball Association was founded. Up until then few teams cared that
the rules varied from tournament to tournament. But then, the tournament prize
money was never $5000.00 and a trip to Vancouver, British Columbia, for the top
US team and top Canadian team. The tournament host, Herb Williams and the
Metropolitan Kennel Club did not have judges or a set of rules. Further, teams
were accustomed to making up rules as they went. Not long into the tournament
as captain of the Ann Arbor Dog Training Club's four Flyball teams, I was
called on to act as official, judge and arbitrator, while the hosts, Herb
Williams and Fred Peddie, were nowhere to be found. At that point the idea of
a North American Flyball Association was conceived. Soon after the tournament,
a set of rules were published and with the help of Dogs in Canada the rules
were made available to other clubs. While the rules have undergone some
changes they have remained essentially the same.
With one set of rules, the North American Flyball Association soon turned its
attention to tournament formats and seeding teams. Early experience with
tournaments saw a variety of formats. Round robin and double elimination
tournaments were introduced with little or no consideration for seeding teams.
Host clubs would seed themselves in a weak bracket or give themselves byes.
One host team after racing one time against a team that had been formed only a
few weeks earlier got two byes into the finals, while in the other bracket
three very good teams were eliminated. Another tournament host insisted that
his team should be seeded number one simply because he would be the crowd
favorite. Unfortunately, there was no crowd. Some host clubs meant well,
seeding the better teams in one bracket and the less experienced teams in
another. Unfortunately, many good teams were eliminated after two races,
while slower teams advanced. Consequently, the North American Flyball
Association soon required host clubs to seed teams based on times recorded in
tournaments and to use either single elimination, double elimination or round
robin formats commonly accepted in other sports. After some initial
complaining, the host clubs finally conceded.
Forms were soon developed to assist clubs and to ensure host clubs followed
acceptable formats and guidelines established by NAFA. Further, the North
American Flyball Association was reorganized with an Executive Committee,
Regional Directors and Team Delegates. The Executive Committee is responsible
for enforcement of the rules and policies, promoting cooperation and good
sportsmanship, discipline, setting and amending the rules, addressing any
protests or complaints and approving judges. The President continued to
perform many of the task assigned to the Executive Committee until 1991, when
many tasks could finally be turned over to the Executive Committee. In the
interest of keeping the NAFA rules consistent and fair, the President kept the
right to veto any resolution by the Executive Committee or by the Delegates,
with provisions to override any veto.
The Regional Directors are responsible for sanctioning all tournaments within
their regions with the approval of NAFA. The Regional Directors must be
willing and capable of advising and assisting new teams and host clubs, working
with the tournament directors and be responsible for the seeding of teams and
approving tournament formats and schedules at NAFA sanctioned tournaments. They
are to communicate regional business to the Executive Committee and attend or
be represented at NAFA sanctioned tournaments in their regions, observe the
measuring of dogs at a NAFA sanctioned tournaments (either the Regional Director
or designated representative). Further, they have the authority to put on
notice the Tournament Director, host club, or a team or judge for violating NAFA
Rules and Policies or for conduct prejudicial to the sport of Flyball.
Since the Executive Committee can only clarify the rules and propose rule
changes to the delegates, the real authority in the NAFA to change the rules is
with the delegates. The delegates are designated by the teams competing in
NAFA sanctioned Flyball tournaments. An annual meeting of delegates is held
each year to vote on rule changes, discuss old and new business, vote on judges
approved by the Executive Committee and elect the President and Executive
Committee. The delegates, designated by the teams and host clubs, present the
group's views and vote for the group when a vote is called. Team delegates for
each calendar year are designated based on the number of tournaments each team
competed in or hosted during a 12-month period.
The NAFA Hall of Fame was introduced to demonstrate the usefulness and
achievements of Flyball dogs in activities such as obedience, confirmation,
field trials, herding, and other sports. However, many felt the Hall of Fame
should be based on Flyball alone. Unfortunately, it is difficult to establish
criteria based on Flyball alone. To date, the criteria for nominating dogs to
the Hall of Fame has not been established. Nevertheless, three exceptional
dogs have been elected. The first to be elected was, a Belgian Tervuren,
AmCanCH CanOTCH Starbright Cisco Kid AmUDTX Can TDX HIC TT and FDCh. Later,
AmOTCH Bergman's Blacky CanCDX FDCh, a Black Labrador Retriever, and CanOTCH
Sueview's Bluestar Saphire AmUD, a Blue Doberman Pinscher, would be elected.
In the meantime, to help promote Flyball, the NAFA decided to award a
certificate of achievement to competing teams. Somehow the award would be
based on team times in sanctioned competition. Individual recognition would be
difficult to award. However, since Flyball is a team sport it was felt that
everyone on the team should be awarded a certificate of achievement or perhaps
a pin or patch.
After some consideration it was proposed to award a certificate of achievement
and the title Flyball dog (FD) to any dog racing in three tournaments on a team
with a time less than 32 seconds; similar certificates and titles of Flyball
Dog Excellent (FDX) and Flyball Dog Champion (FDCh) could be awarded for dogs
racing on a team under 28 seconds and 24 seconds, respectively. It was quickly
pointed out that some dogs may never have an opportunity to earn a FDX, and
certainly not an FDCh. Thus, the final rule that was adopted, allowed dogs to
accumulate points toward titles. This would also help promote Flyball as dogs
would go on to compete after they earned a FD and FDX. Indeed, it did promote
Flyball.
With the growth of Flyball came divisions and flights. This would allow host
clubs to place competitive teams in divisions or flights. Thus, teams racing
with times of 30 seconds would not have to compete with teams capable of racing
under 20 seconds. Although a few teams have taken advantage of the other
teams by entering a slower division, for the most part offering divisions and
flights has helped to promote Flyball.
In 1985, twelve (12) teams representing nine clubs, competed in four (4) NAFA
sanctioned tournaments. In 1990, 114 teams representing 51 clubs competed in
23 NAFA sanctioned tournaments. Tournaments have been held in major cities
across the US and Canada including Toronto, Detroit, Chicago, Louisville,
Vancouver, Houston, Dallas, Kansas City, Minneapolis, San Francisco and
Winnipeg. England has even been the site of several Flyball tournaments. In
1990, teams competed from Michigan, Minnesota, Texas, California, Illinois,
Missouri, Iowa, Ohio, Ontario, Quebec, British Columbia and Manitoba with teams
starting in 30 more States and four more Provinces. Flyball has been
introduced in England, Australia, Sweden, Holland, New Zealand, Argentina,
South Africa and Zimbabwe. As of the fall of 1990, 703 dogs had earned points
toward a Flyball title, 208 had earned the title Flyball dog (FD), 161 had
earned the title Flyball dog excellent (FDX) and 168 have earned the title
Flyball champion (FDCH).
First, generate some interest in your area. Flyball demonstrations at fairs,
shopping centers, parks, art fairs, humane society events, or anywhere people
might gather is a great start. If you do not have a demonstration dog, the
North American Flyball Association will make available a 15-minute video to
show at dog shows and club meetings. Put together a list of names and
addresses of anyone expressing an interest in Flyball.
One way to generate interest is to plan a demonstration or put on a clinic.
There are a number of established teams around the US and Canada that have done
clinics and demonstrations.
Schedule a kickoff meeting. Set a date and time and advertise with the Humane
Society, pet shops, dog clubs, veterinarians, local news papers and radio. At
your kickoff meeting show the NAFA video or have a demonstration. Present
your plan to establish a local Flyball team. Your plan should include
purchasing a box; building jumps; some type of training whether formal or
informal; perhaps a clinic or seminar; demonstrations with your new team or
perhaps with another team from outside your area. Eventually you will want to
enter or even host a tournament. Solicit ideas for places to train and to get
together. Establish the ground rules. Finally, register everyone interested
in forming a team. Encourage them to bring along friends and neighbors that
might also be interested. Schedule a follow up meeting or "get together."
Training can be informal or structured. Training might include clinics,
seminars and even demonstrations. Also, there are currently a number of manuals
available.
Equally important is establishing ground rules: All students must have an up-
to-date health certificate and homeowners insurance. You must practice if you
wish to compete-Flyball is a team sport; if you make a commitment to compete
you should make every effort to show up. When participating in NAFA
tournaments follow NAFA rules and policies showing knowledge and an
understanding of the same. Students and team members should follow the
direction of the instructors or their team captain, except where in doing so
violates NAFA rules and policies. Always promote cooperation and good
sportsmanship in the training and exhibition of dogs; use training methods that
are in the best interest of the dog and the sport of Flyball. At no time show
displeasure toward a dog, a judge, another exhibitor, a NAFA officer, spectator
or sponsor (in or out of the ring). Always be courteous.
The North American Flyball Association (NAFA) was organized in 1984 to
establish a standard set of rules, enable handlers with similar interest to be
in contact, to disseminate information, and to encourage the growth of the
sport. Whether you belong to a dog club, want to start a team, or just teach
your dog a fun activity, the North American Flyball Association can help.
Write to
subscribe in the Subject of the message.
Two key considerations in putting on a successful tournament are judging and
the running surface. Grass is ideal, followed by soft vinyl matting over
carpet. However, soft vinyl matting is suitable. Rubber mats tend to give
poor footing for the dogs. And any moisture due to humidity, rain or wet
grass can cause poor running conditions. Equally important is seeding, the
tournament format and whether to offer divisions or flights. Teams should be
seeded and placed in divisions or flights based on time trials prior to the
competition. However, if time does not permit, the teams should be seeded and
placed in divisions or flights based on the best available information.
Regardless of the method of seeding teams, final seeding must be approved by the
Regional Director. Several host clubs have set aside the first day for seeding
teams. This has worked very well for both the teams and the judges,
particularly where there have been new teams and judges.
Whether to offer divisions or flights often depends on the teams entered.
Again, time trials the day of the tournament will be helpful in placing teams in
the proper division.
The tournament format shall be round robin, single elimination, or double
elimination. Other formats must be approved in advance by the Executive
Committee. In round robin competition each team races each team entered in
their division or flight an equal number of times. Normally, each race consists
of three heats and each team is awarded one point for tie heats or dead heats.
Two points are awarded to the winning team. Places are determined by the
number of points awarded to each team. If two or more teams earn the same
number of points, which is likely in round robin competition, one of the
following tie breakers are used: a head to head run off (normally two out of
three), or results of the head to head competition during the course of the
competition. In the unlikely case that the teams tied during the course of
competition, the team with the best weighted average time shall be
determined to be the winner. Normally, the weighted average time is the
average time of the best 2 out of 3 heats - if there are six heats the best
four would be used to calculate the weighted average; for nine heats the best
six would be used, for 12 heats the best nine, and so on.
In double elimination competition winning teams advance, while losing teams are
placed in another bracket until the team loses a second time. Normally, the
winner is determined in the best two out of three heats. One drawback of
double elimination competition is that several teams, some having driven a
great distance, can lose twice and be out of the tournament. Often consolation
rounds are held for teams eliminated early, making it possible for a team to
lose four or five times before going home.
If the host club elects to offer divisions, teams should be placed in each
division based on times - normally the four or five fastest teams in Division
A, and the next four or five fastest teams in Division B and so on. If the
host club elects to offer flights, teams with times under 24 seconds should
be placed in the Championship Flight. Teams with times greater than 24 seconds
but less than 28 seconds should be placed in the Open Flight. Teams with times
over 28 seconds should be placed in the Novice Flight. One club offered
Championship A and Championship B. This is particularly nice for those clubs
with more than one championship team. Similar divisions could be offered in
Open and Novice. Ideally, there should be 5-6 teams and no fewer than four
teams in each division or flight. When there are not at least four teams
entered in any one flight, the flights should be combined (Championship
with Open or Open with Novice). When flights are combined, the teams would
race against each team in the combined flight, but only be eligible for
placing or prizes in their specified flight. The host club may offer veterans,
sub-novice, pee-wee, multiple breed only teams or handicap flights (times -
not dogs) provided Championship, Open and Novice Flights are offered.
The NAFA recommends a 15 to 20 minute break between each set of races. One
"set of races" may have from 15 to 20 heats (individual races). Spectators
enjoy watching from 15 to 20 heats. Many more and the crowd has had enough
Flyball. Even if the event is not planned as a spectator event, you will
still want to plan a break for the judges and stewards.
Other considerations include available crating area, exercise areas,
refreshments at the show site, hospitality, hotel accommodations and area
restaurants. Also, the facility's rest rooms and seating are important for
spectators and exhibitors.
Perhaps more difficult to assess is tradition and the attitude of the teams
competing. Unfortunately, we cannot invite only the teams we want if the
tournament is to be sanctioned by NAFA. There are always individuals that
never seem to have a good time and are always concerned about the least things.
It is always discouraging to see teams drop out of Flyball; nonetheless,
there are times that I would like to add a few teams to the list of inactives.
Certainly it would be better for all concerned if those individuals took up
another sport. Unfortunately, those individuals do play a major part in the
success of a tournament.
On the following page is a design for a set of jumps commonly used in Flyball
competition. The jumps are easy to store and transport as well as move around.
A small group of five or six can cut out several sets in one afternoon. Having
several sets makes training much easier - two or three team members can get
together to practice and train, or leaving one set up and having another in
the back of the van makes training even more convenient. Of course, if you
decide it is not necessary for everyone to have a set of jumps, you can always
sell a set or two. You will need five (5) - 4' x 8' Sheets of 3/4 inch plywood
(this will be enough lumber for four (4) sets or sixteen (16) jumps) and the
following tools:
First, mark the five (5) sheets of plywood into three (3) equal sections,
32" x 48" each. Next, with a skill saw cut the sheets into three (3)
sections, 32" x 48" each. With a pattern for the uprights, mark 8 of the
sections for the 32 post - the other 7 sections will be used for the 8 inch
bases and the boards. Cut out each upright with a skill saw. Using the
remaining seven (7) sections of plywood, cut out (16)-8" bases, 16-4" boards,
16-2" boards and 32-1" boards using a table saw or a radial arm saw. With the
band saw cut out the slots in the 8" bases and round off the top of each
upright. Next, drill the 3" diameter holes (handles) in each upright. Finish
the slots in each upright and 8" base using a jig saw. Finally, sand and
paint.
Several clubs and individuals use the regulation obedience broad jumps for
training and conditioning. These are certainly easier to make, store,
transport and move around than regulation Flyball jumps.
Competition and the need for a safe, reliable box coupled with a few
guidelines limiting the size of the box will eventually lead us to a
standard box. So before laying down $100 or more for a box, or spending
the better part of a weekend building a box, take a look at some of the
boxes currently available. Talk to some of the teams
that have experience with several styles. Some boxes are more reliable,
some offer greater safety, and others are small, lightweight and compact.
NAFA and the NAFA logo
are registered trademarks of the North American Flyball Association, Inc.
Contents
Chapter 1 - Leaving it to Chance
Chapter 2 - Set up, Rules and Equipment
Each lane is from 10 to 20 feet apart. The start/finish line is 6 feet from
the first jump and each jump is 10 feet apart. The Flyball box is set 15
feet from the last jump. At the far end, placed behind the Flyball boxes,
is a backstop. The backstops prevent loose balls from rolling into the
spectators, under chairs and into the opposing team's lane. Figure 2-1
shows a typical ring setup.
Figure 2-1
In addition to the equipment mentioned (namely, jumps, backstops, and Flyball
boxes), you will need a constant supply of tennis balls. Our team may go
through as many as 100 tennis balls a month, larger clubs may go through
considerably more. Most tennis clubs will normally discard old tennis balls
every three or four months and generally will be willing to set them aside
for your Flyball team.
Chapter 3 - The Right Dog
Participants vary from Great Danes and Rottweilers to Dachshunds.
Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers are popular, as are Border Collies,
Australian Shepherds, Doberman Pinscher and Shetland Sheepdogs. Mixed breeds
compete against and with breed champions, field trial champions and obedience
trial champions.
For an up to date analysis of all breeds that have competed in NAFA
sanctioned tournaments, visit the NAFA Breed
Analysis page.
Breed Number
Airedale Terrier 3
American Eskimo 3
American Pit Bull 2
American Staffordshire Terrier 2
Australian Cattle Dog 9
Australian Kelpie 1
Australian Shepherd 15
Beagle 1
Bearded Collie 6
Belgian Malinois 1
Belgian Sheepdog 7
Belgian Tervuren 24
Bernese Mountain Dog 1
Bloodhound 1
Border Collie 148
Border Terrier 4
Borzoi 1
Portuguese Water Dog 1
Boston Terrier 1
Boxer 4
Rottweiler 7
Breed Unknown 38
Brittany Spaniel 2
Cairn Terrier 1
Chesapeake Bay Retriever 1
Schipperke 1
Scottish Terrier 1
Chocolate Labrador Retriever 2
CKC Spaniel 1
Cockapoo 1
Smooth Coat Collie 2
Cocker Spaniel 28
Corgi 11
Dachshund 1
Dalmatian 4
Doberman Pinscher 43
English Springer Spaniel 14
Flat-Coated Retriever 10
German Shepherd Dog 21
German Shorthair Pointer 13
Giant Schnauzer 3
Golden Retriever 59
Great Dane 1
Heeler 1
Irish Setter 2
Jack Russell Terrier 3
Keeshound 4
Kerry Blue Terrier 1
Labrador Retriever 58
McNab 1
McTavish 1
Miniature Poodle 5
Miniature Schnauzer 7
Mix Breed 47
Newfoundland 3
Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Dog 4
Old English Sheepdog 1
Queens Heeler 2
Rough Coat Collie 1
Saluki 1
Samoyed 2
Shetland Sheepdog 47
Siberian Husky 2
Silky 1
Soft Coat Weaton Terrier 1
Staffordshire Bull Terrier 4
Standard Poodle 6
Vizsla 1
Weaton Terrier 1
Weimaraner 2
Welsh Terrier 1
West Highland White Terrier 1
Whippet 1
Chapter 4 - Behavior
Many individuals still teach Flyball as if it were a singular behavior,
running the dogs back and forth over the jumps again and again. In reality,
Flyball is comprised of many behaviors. Tables 4-1 and 4-2 identify favorable
and unfavorable behavior associated with Flyball.
Table 4-1
Favorable BehaviorTable 4-2
Unfavorable Behavior
Chapter 5 - Reinforcement
Essential in the learning process is the motivation for the dog to modify its
behavior. The dog, to satisfy some motivation, adapts or adjusts to a
situation in which it must modify its behavior in order to overcome some
obstacle. The dog may attempt various responses in an effort to satisfy some
motivation. The correct response, whether by accident or by forethought, is
reinforced.
Chapter 6 - Operant Conditioning
In the magazine "American Psychologist", November 1990, B.F. Skinner, a well
known psychologist, states in a paper, "In operant conditioning,
behavior is reinforced, in the sense of strengthened or made more likely to
occur, by certain kinds of consequences, which first acquired the power to
reinforce through natural selection." Operant conditioning is a process
of conditioning the dog to respond to cues or signals that reinforce certain
behavior. Furthermore, the power to reinforce is through natural selection,
whereby we let the dog know when and where to respond with primary reinforcers.
Through natural selection various cues or signals become conditioned
reinforcers. Primary reinforcement to the dog can be food or even a game of
chase. In effect, operant conditioning is a process of developing a language
between yourself and your dog.
Choose an appropriate reinforcement. In the early stages of shaping
choose a reinforcement with the ability to reinforce behavior independent of an
association with other reinforcers. Food works very well as a primary
reinforcement. Unlike a ball or an old sock, once food reinforces the behavior
it is gone and we do not lose momentum in our training sessions trying to get
the toy away from our dog. Once the behavior is learned conditioned reinforcers
are real and potent in maintaining learned behavior.
Raise the criteria in small increments: Raise the criteria in increments
small enough such that the dog always has a realistic opportunity to be
reinforced. Set your dog up to succeed, help your dog when the wrong decision
is made and your dog will develop a positive attitude toward learning.
Raising the Criteria
As discussed in the previous chapter, the schedule of reinforcement may be
continuous, variable or selective. With a continuous schedule of
reinforcement the reinforcement is paired with every appropriate behavior.
Learning is more rapid with a continuous schedule of reinforcement.
Furthermore, continuous reinforcement is essential to establishing a
correlation between the reinforcement, the command or cue and the behavior.
Follow a schedule of continuous reinforcement until the behavior is
established. However, once the behavior has been established constant
reinforcement results in saturation.
Diagram 6-1 Operant Conditioning
Establishing Reliable Responses
Corrections are used to establish avoidance responses. The dog's response to
the correction will be an escape response. The dog learns to avoid the
correction with an avoidance response. To establish reliable responses we must
introduce escape and avoidance responses and maintain an emotional balance
between escape responses, avoidance responses and responses to positive
reinforcement. The dog must have both the desire to respond because the proper
response predicts positive reinforcement and the desire to respond because
failure to respond predicts negative reinforcement. It is a delicate emotional
balance.
Chapter 7 - Exercises
Flyball exercises can be placed in four categories. Informal exercises are
placed in the first category. These exercises are important to establish not only
control but a bond between the dog and the trainer critical to the learning
process. Formal exercises are placed in the second category and the basic
exercises required for a solid Flyball foundation are placed in the third
category. Finally, the advance exercises - the behaviors more commonly
associated with Flyball - are placed in the fourth category. These categories
are listed in Table 7-1 along with the exercises associated with each category.
Diagram 7-1
Informal Exercises
Interaction. Whenever our team gets together we allow the
dogs time to interact together (supervised play). This is more than just
socializing. The dogs are a team. Some behaviorists might even consider their
play pack interaction.
Formal Exercises
Foundation Exercises
Advanced Exercises
Chapter 8 - Behavior Chain
A series of simple behaviors carried out in a sequence is a behavior chain.
Unlike simple long-duration behaviors - do this for an hour or do this one
hundred times - behavior chains can be maintained since each behavior or link
is actually reinforced by the cue or opportunity to perform the next behavior.
Since Flyball is a sequence of responses where each response creates the
stimulus for the next response, then we can use the principles of chaining to
train our dogs for Flyball. If, on the other hand, Flyball is treated as a
single duration behavior - lead the dog back and forth over the jumps again and
again for an hour, or one hundred times - we loose all motivation for
Flyball, even for the most enthusiastic dog.
Table 8-1 Links of the Behavior Chain
Figure 8-1 Teaching the Outrun Using Forward Chaining
Step 1 Dog Jump Ball
Step 2 Dog Jump Jump Ball
Step 3 Dog Jump Jump Jump Ball
Step 4 Dog Jump Jump Jump Jump Ball
Figure 8-2 Teaching the Outrun using Backward Chaining
Step 1 Dog Jump Ball
Step 2 Dog Jump Jump Ball
Step 3 Dog Jump Jump Jump Ball
Step 4 Dog Jump Jump Jump Jump Ball
Table 8-2 Order links are introduced
Chapter 9 - Passing
Flyball is a team sport that requires the dogs work together. One aspect of
team work is passing. The dogs speed past one another without veering,
becoming distracted or breaking their concentration. Passing should not be
introduced until the dogs are consistent. It's difficult enough to get the
timing when the dogs are consistent - it's virtually impossible if one time the
dog single steps and the next time the dog double steps. When the dogs first
learned the outrun and the return run each dog was released at the center of
the mat, in straight line with the jumps. Introducing passing will require
some further behavior shaping. It is necessary to shape the desired behavior
in gradual steps as illustrated in Figure 9-1 and Figure 9-2 over the course of
several weeks.
Dog/Handler I I I I Ball
I I I I Ball
Dog/Handler
I I I I Ball
Dog/Handler
Figure 9-1. The Outrun Run
Handler I I I I Dog/Helper
Handler I I I I Dog/Helper
Handler I I I I Dog/Helper
Figure 9-1. The Return Run
Handler 1 Dog 1/Helper
I I I I
Dog 2/Helper Handler 2
Figure 9-3. The Return Run
Handler 1 and 3 Dog 1 and 3/Helper
I I I I
Dog 2 and 4/Helper Handler 2 and 4
Figure 9-4. The Return Run (Restrained Recalls)
Handler 1 and 3 Dog 1 and 3/Helper
I I I I
Dog 2 and 4/Helper Handler 2 and 4 Step 1
Handler 1 and 3 Dog 1 and 3/Helper
I I I I
Dog 2 and 4/Helper Handler 2 and 4 Step 2
Handler 1 and 3 Dog 1 and 3/Helper
I I I I
Dog 2 and 4/Helper Handler 2 and 4 Step 3
Figure 9-5. Passing
Chapter 10 - Practice
When our team gets together we always allow time for the dogs to interact.
The dogs are allowed to play together off lead while we set up the jumps and
get the equipment ready. While the dogs are playing, we will discuss upcoming
tournaments, last week's practice, and go over what we want to accomplish this
week. As discussed earlier, this allows the dogs to establish their natural
tendencies toward being dominate and subordinate; the result is the control of
aggression within the team.
Table 10-1 Record
Date ___________ Place _______________________ Page ____ of ____
Comments___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
First Dog Second Dog Third Dog Fourth Dog Team
Time Notes Time Notes Time Notes Time Notes Total
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
EP - Early Pass MB - Missed Ball CJ - Cuts Jump
FS - False Start OS - Over Shoots Box KJ - Knocks Down Jump
LS - Late Start HB - Hesitates at Box NR - No Retrieve
LP - Late Pass WT - Wide/Slow Turn DB - Drops Ball
SL - Slow/Double TB - Fails to Trigger IN - Interferes
Steps the Box OT - Other
Table 10-1 Record (Sample)
Date ___________ Place _______________________ Page ____ of ____
Comments___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
First Dog Second Dog Third Dog Fourth Dog Team
Time Notes Time Notes Time Notes Time Notes Total
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____
EP - Early Pass MB - Missed Ball CJ - Cuts Jump
FS - False Start OS - Over Shoots Box KJ - Knocks Down Jump
LS - Late Start HB - Hesitates at Box NR - No Retrieve
LP - Late Pass WT - Wide/Slow Turn DB - Drops Ball
SL - Slow/Double TB - Fails to Trigger IN - Interferes
Steps the Box OT - Other
Table 10-2 Work Sheet
Dog's Name No of Runs % Rank Avg. Rank
Runs _____ Time ____
1 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
2 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
3 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
4 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
5 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
6 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
7 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
8 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
9 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
10 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
11 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
12 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
13 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
14 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
15 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
16 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
17 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
18 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
19 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
20 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
21 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
22 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
23 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
24 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
Team statistics
Team1 Team2 Team3 Team4
_____ _____ _____ _____ Runs < _____ seconds/total number of runs
_____ _____ _____ _____ % (Number of runs/total number of runs)
_____ _____ _____ _____ Average time (runs under ______ seconds)
_____ _____ _____ _____ early passes
_____ _____ _____ _____ missed balls
_____ _____ _____ _____ times the jumps were cut
_____ _____ _____ _____ false starts
_____ _____ _____ _____ times a dog over shot the box
_____ _____ _____ _____ times a jump was knocked down
_____ _____ _____ _____ late starts
_____ _____ _____ _____ times a dog hesitates at the box
_____ _____ _____ _____ times a dog fails to retrieve
_____ _____ _____ _____ late passes
_____ _____ _____ _____ wide or slow turns
_____ _____ _____ _____ times a dog dropped the ball
_____ _____ _____ _____ times dog was slow/double stepped
_____ _____ _____ _____ times dog fails to trigger the box
_____ _____ _____ _____ times a dog interfered with the other team
_____ _____ _____ _____ Other __________________________________
Table 10-2 Work Sheet (Sample)
Dog's Name No of Runs % Rank Avg. Rank
Runs <____ Time
<____
1 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
2 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
3 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
4 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
5 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
6 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
7 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
8 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
9 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
10 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
11 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
12 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
13 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
14 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
15 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
16 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
17 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
18 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
19 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
20 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
21 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
22 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
23 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
24 __________________ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
Team statistics
Team1 Team2 Team3 Team4
_____ _____ _____ _____ Runs < _____ seconds/total number of runs
_____ _____ _____ _____ % (Number of runs/total number of runs)
_____ _____ _____ _____ Average time (runs under ______ seconds)
_____ _____ _____ _____ early passes
_____ _____ _____ _____ missed balls
_____ _____ _____ _____ times the jumps were cut
_____ _____ _____ _____ false starts
_____ _____ _____ _____ times a dog over shot the box
_____ _____ _____ _____ times a jump was knocked down
_____ _____ _____ _____ late starts
_____ _____ _____ _____ times a dog hesitates at the box
_____ _____ _____ _____ times a dog fails to retrieve
_____ _____ _____ _____ late passes
_____ _____ _____ _____ wide or slow turns
_____ _____ _____ _____ times a dog dropped the ball
_____ _____ _____ _____ times dog was slow/double stepped
_____ _____ _____ _____ times dog fails to trigger the box
_____ _____ _____ _____ times a dog interfered with the other team
_____ _____ _____ _____ Other __________________________________
Chapter 11 - Preparing for a Tournament
A week or two before a tournament we begin to concentrate on starts and
passing, noting which dogs pass well together, which dogs most consistently run
under 6 seconds and which dogs are the fastest. From this we determine the
order each dog will run and what teams they will likely race against. With six
dogs on a team there are 240 possible combinations - depending which dogs race
and the order they race. Depending on the circumstances, I always have in mind
three or four combinations that have worked well in practice or in other
tournaments. During the excitement of the competition it is difficult enough to
make a decision, let alone the right one. Of course despite all my planning
there are those that think I rarely make the right decision. Nonetheless, I
like to make my decisions before the competition begins.
Chapter 12 - Clinic Outline
Introduction
Behavior
Reinforcement
Operant Conditioning
Exercises (Discusion/demonstration)
Informal Exercises
Formal Exercises
Foundation Exercises
Advanced Exercises
Exercises (Participation)
Behavior Chains
Dog Jump Ball
Dog Jump Jump Ball
Dog Jump Jump Jump Ball
Dog Jump Jump Jump Jump Ball
Dog Jump Ball
Dog Jump Jump Ball
Dog Jump Jump Jump Ball
Dog Jump Jump Jump Jump Ball
Passing
Dog/Handler I I I I Ball
Step 1
I I I I Ball
Dog/Handler Step 2
I I I I Ball
Dog/Handler Step 3
Handler I I I I Dog/Helper
Step 1
Handler I I I I Dog/Helper
Step 2
Handler
I I I I Dog/Helper
Step 3
Handler 1 Dog 1/Helper
I I I I
Dog 2/Helper Handler 2
Handler 1 and 3 Dog 1 and 3/Helper
I I I I
Dog 2 and 4/Helper Handler 2 and 4
Handler 1 and 3 Dog 1 and 3/Helper
I I I I
Dog 2 and 4/Helper Handler 2 and 4
Step 1
Handler 1 and 3 Dog 1 and 3/Helper
I I I I
Dog 2 and 4/Helper Handler 2 and 4
Step 2
Handler 1 and 3 Dog 1 and 3/Helper
I I I I
Dog 2 and 4/Helper Handler 2 and 4
Step 3
Typical Practice
Conditioning
Chapter 13 - Course Outline
Beginning Flyball - Week 1
* the class will be split - the assistant (*) works with
half the students, while the instructor works with the
remaining students. After 20-30 minutes the students will
switch rooms.
Discussion Exercises Handouts
Introduction
Jump Command
Chase an Object
Hide and Seek
Chase the handler
Target (hand)*
On Your Mark
Beginning Flyball - Week 2
Discussion Review Exercises New Exercises
Four Basic Behaviors
Jump Command
Target (hand)*
Chase an Object
Directed Jump
Restrained Recall
Catch*
Take Hold Give*
Sit, Stand, Down*
Beginning Flyball - Week 3
Discussion Review Exercises New Exercises
Behaviors
Directed Jump
Restrained Recall
Sit, stand, down *
Take Hold Give*
Target*
Catch*
Restrained Recall (add one jump)
Chase an Object (add one jump)
Push/Catch*
Stay Command*
Beginning Flyball - Week 4
Discussion Review Exercises New Exercises
Operant Conditioning
Directed Jump
Restrained Recall (one Jump)
Chase (one jump)
Take Hold Give
Push/Catch (box)
(in place)*
Sit/Stay Command*
Recall (two jumps)
Chase an Object (two jumps)
Straight Recall
Target (transfer)*
Retrieve
Beginning Flyball - Week 5
Discussion Review Exercises New Exercises
Forward Chains
Backward ChainsDirected Jump
Restrained Recall (two jumps)
Chase (two jumps)
Straight Recall
Retrieve
Target (transfer)*Restrained Recall (three jumps)
Chase an Object (three jumps)
Target (load box)*
Quarter Turns (sit-stay)*
Beginning Flyball - Week 6
Discussion Review Exercises New Exercises
Goals
Directed Jump
Restrained Recall (three jumps)
Chase (three jumps)
Retrieve
Straight Recall
Sit/Stay (qtr turns)*
Trigger the box*
Restrained Recall (four jumps)
Chase an Object (four jumps)
Recalls (qtr turns)
Trigger the box (add distance)*
Take Hold Give*Beginning Flyball - Week 8
Discussion Review Exercises New Exercises
Directed Jump
Recall (qtr turn)
Sit/stay (qtr turn)*
Trigger the box*
Backward Chain
Beginning Flyball - Week 9
Discussion Review Exercises New Exercises
Class Evaluation
Backward Chain
Add the Box to the Behavior Chain
Advanced Flyball - Week 1
* the class will be split with the assistant (*) working with
half the students, while the instructor works with the
remaining students. After 20-30 minutes the students will
switch instructors.
Discussion Exercises Handouts
Four basic behaviors
(Beginning Flyball)
Advanced class
On Your Mark
Advanced Flyball - Week 2
Discussion Exercises Note
Review Behaviors
Operant-Conditioning
Retrieve
Straight Recall
Directed jump
Return Run
Outrun
Sit/Stay*
Jumps 8-9 ft apart
Target (transfer to box)*
Take Hold Give*
Advanced Flyball - Week 3
Discussion Exercises Combine Class
Behavior Chain
Directed Jump
Recall (qtr turn)
Sit-Stay (qtr turn)*
Trigger the box*
Backward Chain
Advanced Flyball - Week 4
Discussion Exercises New Exercises
Directed Jump
Recall (qtr turn)
Sit-Stay (qtr turn)*
Trigger the box*
Outrun (9-10 ft)
Return Run (9-10 ft)
Stand for Exam*
Circle Right*
About Turn*
Retrieve (turn and chase)
Advanced Flyball - Week 5
Discussion Exercises New Exercises
Relax Criteria
Retrieve (turn and Chase)
Outrun (9-10 feet)
Return Run (9-10 ft)
Trigger the box *
Circle Right*
About turn*
Stand for Exam*
Directed Jump
Raise the Jumps
Back up and Call*
Box (Turn and Chase)*
Advanced Flyball - Week 6
Discussion Exercises New Exercises
Relax Criteria
Retrieve (turn and Chase)
Outrun (8-9 feet)
Return Run (8-9 ft)
Trigger the box *
Circle Right*
About turn*
Stand for Exam*
Back up and Call*
Box (Turn and Chase)*
Directed Jump
Introduce Racing Side by Side
Advanced Flyball - Week 7
Discussion Exercises New Exercises
Passing
Retrieve (turn and Chase)
Outrun (9-10 feet)
Return Run (9-10 ft)
Trigger the box *
Circle Right*
About turn*
Stand for Exam*
Back up and Call*
Box (Turn and Chase)*
Directed Jump
Box (Back up and call)*
Introduce passing
Advanced Flyball - Week 8
Discussion Exercises New Exercises
Passing
Retrieve (turn and Chase)
Outrun (8-9 feet)
Return Run (8-9 ft)
Trigger the box *
Circle Right*
About turn*
Stand for Exam*
Back up and Call*
Box
Raise the jumps
Passing
Advanced Flyball - Week 9
Discussion Exercises New Exercises
Class Evaluation
Behavior Chain
Add passing to the Behavior Chain
Class Evaluation
Chapter 14 - Problems
"The good mechanic can see something going wrong and put it right before any
damage is done, while the bad one will wait until the machine is wrecked. But
the reason a clever mechanic can do that is because he knows how the machine
works and therefore knows what is likely to go wrong."
Aggression
The dog's natural instincts take over when it becomes excited. Their need
to dominate, chase and hunt sometimes motivates undesirable behavior.
Correcting the dog when it is excited will only further excite the dog and
only make the problem worse. The correction must first be paired with
something negative independent of the behavior. Pairing the word "No" with a
collar correction independent of any ongoing behavior will be helpful, not only
for aggressive behavior but other training problems as well. Any signal that
the dog might give before actually becoming aggressive should signal you to
correct the dog before the behavior becomes aggressive. Again, a good trainer
will make things right before any damage is done. Aggressive behavior, whether
from natural instincts, play or otherwise, should not be tolerated under any
circumstances.
Dog won't go over all four jumps.
Many dogs have a comfort zone. Some dogs will not leave their handler beyond
that comfort zone. That can be helpful when walking your dog, but in Flyball,
we might have to extend that comfort zone. Work on the outrun adding one jump
at a time, using backward chaining.
Dog drops the ball.
Work on the foundation for the command "Hold". If your dog will not hold an
article on the sit-stay, or while running, the dog will not hold the article
going over a jump, much less during a race. Do not combine the retrieve and
jumping until the dog is solid on both.
Dog doesn't like tennis balls.
Occasionally there is a dog that will not have anything to do with a tennis
ball, despite efforts to entice the dog to "Take It," retrieve the ball, or
play with the ball. If the dog will play tug of war or play retrieve an old
sock, the handler can place a ball in the old sock, with the idea of eventually
eliminating the sock all together.
Dog steps on the pedal but doesn't retrieve the ball.
Many dogs do not understand what is expected when the handler attempts to make
the dog learn too many behaviors simultaneously. Many trainers attempt to
simultaneously teach the dog to jump, push the pedal, retrieve the ball, turn
quickly and return over all four jumps. It just cannot be done effectively.
Work on the command "Take" separately until the behavior has been established
and the dog flat retrieves on a short lead. Later, put the dog on a long line.
Dog is fast going out but slow to return.
Work on long line recalls, restrained recalls and quick turns. Initially there
should be no corrections. Later, add the correction for slow responses. Pair
the correction with the command "Come" on a short lead, eventually working up
to a long line. Later, add the correction to the retrieve and the quick turn.
It's important that the dog initially associates the correction with a slow
response to the command "Come" and not the retrieve, the ball or the box.
Dog runs around the jumps.
Work on the conditioned reinforcement "No". Working with the one jump, teach
the dog directed jumping. Initially, the jump is offset slightly as you help,
even guide, your dog over the jump and reinforce every correct response. If
the dog cuts the jump, correct the dog using the command "No," then guide it
over the jump, reinforcing the correct response. If "No" has been taught
properly it will predict a correction; indeed, as far as the dog is concerned
it is a correction. The command "No" need not be harsh. It is a simple means
to communicate to the dog that it is wrong. Immediately give your dog
an opportunity to try again. This time make sure the dog is assured success.
Later, use backward chaining to work the dog up to four jumps.
Dog is distracted by other dogs.
First, allow your dog to interact with the other dogs. This will build the
dog's confidence, and the interaction will teach the dog that there is a time
for all things, even being a dog.
Dog is afraid of the box or jumps.
First condition the dog to associate the box or jumps with a treat and praise.
The dog should be introduced to the box gradually. Leave the box around the
house where the dog will become accustomed to it. Even put treats on the box
or let the dog retrieve a few balls that roll near the box.
Dog shoots past the box.
Develop a quick turn, teaching the dog a behavior incompatible with shooting
past the box. Using a correction paired with such commands as "Easy" are less
effective. Also, teaching the dog an incompatible behavior will be more
durable. To be effective the command "Easy" must predict negative
reinforcement before using with the box. If the dog approaches the box
without slowing down, give it the correction "Easy." (Note that this is
not a collar correction but a verbal correction that has been paired with a
collar correction independent of the behavior of approaching the box). If the
dog slows down without the correction, be ready to give it a positive
reinforcement.
Dog cannot catch the ball.
Initially, teach the dog to catch on "command." Either toss the ball or hand
the dog the ball pairing the command "Catch" with the exercise. If a ball is
not working, try food paired with the command "catch." Earlier we taught the
dog to "Push" (hand shake) by enticing your dog to push your hand and
reinforce the behavior with a piece of food. Now, instead of food, play a game
of catch combining the command "Push" with the command "Catch."
Chapter 15 - North American Flyball Association
Today the governing body for most Flyball competition is the North American
Flyball Association (NAFA). The association, founded in the interest of
promoting good sportsmanship in the training and exhibition of dogs competing
in Flyball, has set forth rules, regulations and a code of ethics to be
followed by all who wish to participate in NAFA sanctioned Flyball competition.
Since this book was written, NAFA has instituted a system where up to
two dogs per year can be elected to the Hall of Fame. Complete details for
nominating a dog and all the inductees can be found in the
NAFA Hall of Fame web page.
Since this book was written, NAFA has added some new titles. The
current NAFA titles are:
Abbr Title Points Award Type
FD Flyball Dog 20 Certificate
FDX Flyball Dog Excellent 100 Certificate
FDCh Flyball Dog Champion 500 Certificate
FM Flyball Master 5000 Pin
FMX Flyball Master Excellent 10000 Pin
FMCh Flyball Master Champion 15000 Pin
ONYX ONYX Award 20000 Plaque
FGDCh Flyball Grand Champion 30000 Plaque
Chapter 16 - Getting Started
So you have seen Flyball and you think both you and your dog will enjoy this
new sport. But, how do you get started? How do you start and establish teams
in your area? What about training?
North American Flyball Association, Inc.
for more information on:
1400 W. Devon Ave, #512
Chicago, IL 60660.
Since this book was written, there has been tremendous growth in the
Internet and the World Wide Web. The Flyball Home Page can be found at
http://www.flyballdogs.com.
There is also a Flyball e-mail list. You can subscribe via the Flyball Home
Page or by sending an e-mail to
flyball-request@flyballdogs.com with just
Chapter 17 - Putting on a Successful Tournament
There is an old adage that goes "failing to plan is planning to fail." Once
the decision is made to host a Flyball tournament, the host club should have a
well thought-out plan. When planing a tournament, designate a tournament
committee. Some suggestions are covered in Section 5.6 of the NAFA Rules.
The tournament committee should first determine the time available. The amount
of time available will dictate the number of races you can plan. Follow the
schedule recommended by NAFA: for round robin tournaments the host club
shall not schedule more than seven (7) races per hour (with a maximum 3 heats
per race) and for a single or double elimination tournament the host club shall
not schedule more the (8) races per hour (with the winner being determined in
the best 2 out of 3 heats). Also in the rule book is a tournament checklist
that will help you plan your tournament. Upon request the NAFA will provide a
quote to assist individuals, clubs or groups hosting a NAFA sanctioned
tournament, including handling entries, preparing schedules and providing
insurance, forms, judges, rules, mailing labels, printing, catalogs, equipment,
setup and cleanup or any part thereof as specified by the individual, club or
group. Also available from the NAFA is a software program to assist clubs
with preparing schedules.
EQUIPMENT
Jumps
Flyball jumps shall be solid, white and are to have an inside width of 24
inches, with the height varying from 8 inches (minimum height) to 16 inches
(maximum height) - four inches lower than the smallest dog on the team. The
jump height shall be adjusted in one inch increments to the lowest whole number
(e.g., 14 and 3/4 inches becomes 14 inches). The uprights shall be no more than
36 inches high nor less than 24 inches high.
Commercially Available Jumps
(Kathryn: put a link to the NAFA Equipment suppliers here )
Balls
Each team shall have their own supply of unpunctured regulation tennis balls
(any color). Subject to the size and comfort of the dog, squash balls,
racquet balls or other approved balls may be used. Check with your local
tennis club for a supply of old tennis balls that might otherwise be discarded.
Sure Shot. The ball was projected out of a
hole in the top. Then came the "monster boxes" that had to be wheeled in.
Developed largely to allow the dogs to bank off the box, they too had a hole in
the top where the ball popped out. Not to be out down, the Ultimate soon
offered a larger pedal that covered the top of the box, allowing the dogs to
bank off the Ultimate as well. Furthermore, the larger pedal made it
virtually impossible for the dogs to miss the pedal.
More recently a new
box has been introduced. A wedge shape, the
pedal is similar to the Ultimate, making it virtually impossible for any
dog to miss the pedal.
Sure Shot Flyball Box
The ball is projected out a hole similar to the original Sure Shot;
however, with the hole in the pedal it is virtually impossible for any dog
to miss the ball. The wedge design offers a large surface for the dogs to
bank off and the ball is projected out at a point several inches closer to
the "line" giving the team a slight advantage to the conventional designs.
There are no sharp corners that might injure the dog and the hole is located
high enough that it is unlikely that a dog would catch a paw in the hole.
The designs are relatively compact, making them easy to carry and store.
The wedge design is popular and comes in several different designs.
Wedge Flyball Box 
Boxes with the arm extending out the back
require more skill on the dog's part and have a lot of appeal with some
spectators and Flyball enthusiasts. However, more and more teams are using
a totally enclosed box with a wedge shape. Most boxes offer a large place
to push-off; however, it has been my experience that an excessively large
platform is not necessary, nor necessarily safer. You could make your own or
purchase one of the many available. For more information check out the
Flyball Marketplace Web Page.
Fox, Dr. Michael W., Understanding Your Dog, Coward McCann and Geoghegan Inc., 1974
Holmes, John, The Farmers Dog, Popular Dog Publishing Co. Ltd., 1984
Holmes, John, The Obedient Dog, Popular Dog Publishing Co. Ltd., 1985
Lopez, Barry Holstun, Of Wolves and Men, Charles Scribner & Sons, 1978
Kingsley, Howard L., The Nature and Conditions of Learning, Prentice Hall Inc., 1957
Pryor, Karen, Don't Shoot the Dog!, Simon and Schuster, 1984
Pryor, Karen, Lads Before the Wind, Sunshine Books, 1975
Roberts, Thomas B., Four Psychologies Applied to Education, Schenkman Publishing Co., 1975